The forest soon fell away beneath me as the track led up
scrubby slopes to the snow line. Walking through the snow, my eyes fell on the
tracks of a big cat. It has snowed the previous night so these were fresh
pugmarks, clearly outlined. I knew instantly I was in the company of a snow
leopard, that iconic symbol of the wildness and harshness of the Great
Himalaya.
The idea of a trek to Kanchenjunga in eastern Nepal finally
took life after I went to an Adventure Writer’s course at Mt Cook last
June. By serendipity, I met fellow
writers, Penny Webster and Nina Sawicki, who jumped at the idea of a trek in
Nepal. Penny, I’d known for many years and is a well-known multi-sport athlete.
Nina is a busy GP from Wellington and an enthusiastic member of the Wellington
section of the NZ Alpine Club. I invited my good friend, Paula Macfarlane,
currently a missionary doctor in Nepal to join us, rounding off a foursome.
The plan was to trek up to Kanchenjunga South Basecamp from
Suketar, cross the Mirgin La to Ghunsa, trek to Pangpema or Kanchenjunga North
Basecamp, back to Ghunsa, cross the Nango La and trek down the Yangma Khola and
Tamor Valley back to Taplejung.
This area of Nepal offers a different type of trek to the
over-crowded ‘Tea-house' trekking destinations of the Khumbu and Annapurna
regions. The settlements are small and accommodation is unreliable and
consequently, it's more of an expedition. I asked Govinda Sapkota to be our
sirdar. Govinda had been on 2 previous trips with me and I’d found him to be
very reliable and organised. He recruited 5 porters and a cook making a team of
11.
Outside Tribhuvan airport was the familiar face of Govinda who whisked us into
a van and off to the Shanker Hotel. The streets were just as busy as ever and I
think it was a bit of a shock for Nina and Penny. On arrival at the Shanker, I
left the others to sort their bags while I approached reception. There was
mutual recognition and it felt good to be back at such an iconic hotel with its
friendly staff.
On 24th Govinda arrived and took us to Tribhuvan
Airport, where we waited for our flight to Bhadrapur. This was late of course
and we spent an extra 2 hours waiting in the crowded departure lounge. Eventually, our Budda Air flight arrived and
we got away for a 45-minute flight to Bhadrapur. On arrival, we were met by the
rest of Govinda's team who emerged from a bus that he had hired for the long
ride up into the mountains. Off we drove across the plains past impoverished
farms and villages and then quite abruptly we started climbing up steep hills
through a forest to 1700m where it was refreshingly cooler
The narrow road wound it’s way up and over numerous forested
hills till we came to a small village where we stopped for the night. The rooms
were tiny with a sleeping platform. The toilet and shower were a primitive
affair. I shared a room with Paula while Nina and Penny were in another one. During the night an
electrical storm burst over us and rain rattle drummed on the tin roof as the
wind flailed the flimsy curtain and pyrotechnics momentarily lit up the room. I
stumbled out of bed as the window banged closed and then flew open in the wind
gusts. I latched it and then went to the loo. The tin covered door of the loo
was difficult to latch and it too banged in the wind. When I went to leave the
door would not open. A moment of panic seized me at the thought of having to
spend the rest of the night in the loo! There was was still thunder and
lightening like in a Somerset Maughan novel, the hero trapped in an undefined
hell hole. I yelled out to Paula for help as the Monty Pythonesque drama
unfolded. Then the door swung open, much to my relief and Paula’s mirth. After
that, the rest of the night was positively boring.
Breakfast
was an omelette between 2 chappatis…delicious. Once the flat tire was fixed, we
revved up and off we went. The road went on and on, around countless bends
where our driver slowed and blasted his horn. The terrain was forested hills
and lovely terraces perched on the steep slopes. We were thankful to have such
a skilful driver. The road went over numerous mountains, in and out of valleys
till at last, we came to Taplejung. Here we stopped to buy kerosene and a few odds and
ends. Then we drove up the hill to Suketar at 2450m and booked into a local
hotel.
The 26th was the first day of our trek. Our destination was
Kunjari. We gave our bags to the porters before breakfast, as they would set
off before us. Thick mist lay on the hills as we walked up the 4WD track. This
wound through the umbrageous forest up and down hills till we came to the
rather forlorn village of Lali Kharka where we stopped for lunch. Here the damp
mist turned to rain. It was a bit depressing! The local school children came
and stared at us. Penny and Nina were locked in an animated conservation all
day.
Nina "Penny, you're like a humming bird z-z-z".
Kunjari looked a bit dismal when we arrived in the mist.
Houses were perched on a steep hillside and there were mounds of rubble on the
school playground from roadworks. The schoolrooms were locked and on the other
side of the pitch were some derelict buildings.
Govinda and Chandra went off to find the schoolteacher to get permission
to camp there. I suggested that instead of camping, we just use one of the
derelict schoolrooms. So we set up camp in one and the staff used the next-door
one. Two hours later our heavily laden porters arrived.
We awoke
up to a fine day on 27th.
After
a nice breakfast of muesli, an egg sandwich and coffee, we hit the trail. It
was a steep climb up to Khesewa.
We
wandered around forested hillsides dotted with red rhododendron flowers. At 11
am we stopped for an early lunch at a place called Sherpagoan. Generally, lunch
was bought in teahouses and took 1.5 hours to prepare which was fine as it gave
us a chance to rest. It was sunny and warm. Penny lay down on the grass outside
and I wandered off for some quiet meditation, sitting on a rock and gazing out
over the deep valley stretching off to misty mountains.
After
lunch, we did a big descent into the valley, crossed a creek and climbed out
around a steep hillside. The woodland was very beautiful with lots of Cardamom
plants. We eventually arrived at Pipalboat (my phonetic spelling),
some houses straddling a ridge and set up camp on a flat terrace beside a
Buddhist temple. I.5 hours later, the heavily-laden porters arrived. This was
Arcadian in comparison with Kunjari.
Meanwhile, the staff had the large kitchen tent pitched and
dinner cooking. Chandra produced some delicious Momos. We sat on the grass and
ate in the dark looking out over the darkened valleys with pinpricks of light
from the scattered houses thereabouts. All was serene and quiet until Penny let
out a blood-curdling scream that shattered the night air like a bolt of
lightening. My immediate thought was a snakebite, from a krait, a deadly
poisonous snake found in Nepal. However, our torch found a small frog sitting
quietly beside her! Govinda shooed it away while we had a good laugh. After
dinner, I headed off to bed as I was tired and had an annoying respiratory
infection.
During the night it rained heavily. Dawn brought a clearance
and to the northeast, we could see some snowy peaks. Govinda's kitchen tent
where the staff slept had leaked. After breakfast, we set off for Phumphe. It
was a hot day, as we sidled up the valley on a well-formed track. On the way, we passed a group of young men carrying an old
woman in a doko or
basket. They said she was paralysed and they were taking her to a hospital. One
look at her and I thought she was very unlikely to survive the journey but
there was little anyone could do for her in remote rural Nepal. What a far cry
from the services that we take for granted in NZ. Mamankhe was a delightful
village where we camped on a lovely lawn bordered by flowers.
It was still early with plenty of time to rest and enjoy the
bucolic ambience of the village. Penny went off and helped some of the local
women milling wheat with a pole that pivoted and crushed the wheat in a
bowl-like stone. Later, an old woman possibly the seer of Mamankhe stopped to
talk to us. She only spoke Nepali and Paula translated for us though this was
difficult because of the local dialect. With much arm waving she predicted we
would die in the jungle or snows up ahead if the lightening did not finish us
off first. Maybe she was drunk or mad but it did not sound very encouraging in
any case. Chandra and his helpers made us mushroom soup, pizza and fried
potatoes…delectable.
On 29th we awoke to a misty dawn. There had been
a gentle rain during the night and no death-defying electrical storm that the
Seer had talked about. For breakfast, we were served muesli and a
sandwich of egg and chapatti. It
was a pleasant day walking around the forested hillsides, passing small
colourful houses some perched on poles over steep slopes often with banana
trees nearby. We noted how impoverished this area was in comparison to the
Khumbu or Annapurna, which of course attract many more tourists. Penny called
it “cultural immersion”.
After lunch, we dropped to a side creek in the forest and
here the girls decided to stop for a swim. I thought it best not to join them
in case the Nepalis thought it inappropriate. Further along some river flats, we arrived at Yamphudin.
There were a few houses and a police post.
Next morning we set off up the hill on a steep path that
eventually led to some beautiful Sherpa lodges situated on a terrace. If I’d
known about them, we would have camped here instead.
Then it was another big
climb around the hillside across a creek to the Amji Khola and the start of a
very steep climb on a switched back track that went up 1100m to Lasiya
Bhamjyang, a pass on a mountain range at 3310m. The girls arrived and we
sat around for ages wondering how the porters were faring as they had all the
gear. It had been a 1600m climb from Yamphudin. After 5 pm I became so worried
they would not make it before dark that Govinda and I set off with some water
down the mountain, looking for them. After about 160m we met them looking quite
worn out. We took some of their packs and gave them a drink. Then back up to
the hut. We pitched our camp on the sodden ground near the forest edge.
The 31st dawned misty which later cleared a bit.
I had a headache and was not feeling great. We packed up the sodden tent and gave the bags to the porters before we had
breakfast. I scoffed down some chapattis and an egg followed by my ‘fluffy'.
After this, I felt a bit better. The track climbed up to a col and much to my
surprise there was a massive slip on the other side dropping to the Simbuwa
Khola. We climbed up to the right and then sidled down through the forest to
the river
far below.
The track continued along the river on easy flats all the
way to Anda Phedi where there was a Sherpa house. Here we set up camp. There
was no toilet so Govinda dug a latrine behind a nearby rock. Chanda made us a
delicious meal of spring rolls, potatoes and a vegetable. We sure felt spoilt.
Our camp was cosy. It rained again during the night. I had a much better sleep.
On 1st April it dawned a fine day. After
breakfast, we continued up easy flats to Cheram where there were several
attractive Sherpa houses. Da Chiring was there and we booked into his
comfortable lodge. The sun was shining and the scenery superlative. Paula decided to head off up the track
towards the Mirgin La to help her acclimatisation. When she returned, the
weather had taken a turn for the worse with hail and plunging temperatures. I
had regrets that I’d not started with Paula so quickly headed off by myself up
the steep track from 3890m to 4220m. High up I met Penny who had left earlier, on her way down. She had just
climbed a small peak to the left. Just after we got back the weather got much
worse with heavy hail and thunder rolling around the snowy peaks above. Cold,
like a block of iron, fell upon the land. That night it snowed and thundered.
A beautiful, clear day greeted us on 2nd. Fresh
snow blanketed the mountains and the sun touched their tops. Paula and I had planned to climb a nearby
peak. To the east of Cheram was a peak over 5000m high that looked easy. But
first, we had to cross the Simbuwa Khola and find a way through the forest to
the tree line. Below the village, we crossed a bridge and followed a
snow-covered track up through the forest to a flat plain at the mouth of the
Yamgachha Khola.
It was warm and sunny with splendid views of the surrounding
peaks. Here we turned left up a spur on an indistinct animal trail through the
forest. By now the clouds were gathering on the
surrounding peaks and soon our one was enveloped. Breathlessly we retreated from the oncoming storm.
Next day, We were greeted by a snowy landscape and a cold dawn. After
breakfast, we set off for Okhordung. Govinda and Shambhu came with us and the
rest of the staff stayed at Cheram. The track wandered up through the snow-covered
forest to flats on the side of the lateral moraine of the Yalung Glacier. I was
not feeling 100% with an upset stomach and lagged in the rear of the team.
Ramchaur were just some huts and a caretaker. The sun was shining and
surrounding mountains looked magnificent with their hanging glaciers. We pulled
up some chairs and sat around having a hot drink.
Nina and I decided this was far enough so we stayed, while
Penny, Paula, Shambu and Govinda carried on to Okhondung. Up ahead were
fabulous views of the Kabru Peaks but Kanchenjunga was hidden around a bend in
the valley. Nina and I had only just set off down valley when we could see an
oncoming storm racing up the valley to meet us. Great grey clouds roiled around
the peaks, which soon disappeared and it grew dark and the temperature crashed. Down we
went into the forest now covered in falling snow. Then, we were at the lodge
and salvation.
The
plan was to try to cross the Mirgin La tomorrow, leaving at 5.00 am. I took a
sleeping pill and crashed early.
We got up at 3.30 am and started packing. Breakfast was at
4.00 am of rice pudding and pancakes. We left at 5.15 am from Cheram back up
the steep track we’d gone up two days previous to the Sinelapche Bhanjyang, a
750m climb. I locked myself into a sort of trance focussing on a breath per
step and no rests. The forest soon fell away beneath me and the track led up
scrubby slopes to the snow line. Walking through the snow my eyes fell on the tracks
of a big cat. It has snowed the previous night so these were fresh pugmarks,
clearly outlined. I knew instantly an elusive snow leopard had passed this way.
The tracks led downhill and came from high above following our route march. On
we climbed following the tracks, which often diverted into caves looking for
prey. It took us 3 hours to reach the first pass –Sinelapche Bhanjyang at
4646m. To the east was a great array of snow peaks and sun caught the rocky
summits above us turning them orange. We then started a long descending sidle
to the next pass, the Mirgin La at 4480m.
I hung back with some porters as did Paula and we eventually
regrouped on the pass. Another snow leopard’s tracks appeared going in the
opposite direction along our route. From here we dropped into a valley sidling
high above it. I moved ahead following Paula as we started the climb to
the next pass, the Sirion La at 4440m. There were some rock cairns on a crest
and just below a narrow pass led to another valley. The views were breathtaking
of Kumbhakharna (Jannu), a savage looking 7711m peak that a New Zealand team
tried to climb in 1975 on the Wall of Shadows. It was organised by Penny’s
great friend Limbo Thompson, a legend of NZ mountaineering.
Once we regrouped, I shouldering my pack I started down the snow slopes into the
Selele Khola. Lower down the track wound down a snow-free scrubby country,
across the river to a few rustic huts where we stopped. The huts were locked but the
staff managed to find a key and open one up, for a kitchen. We pitched our camp
outside. Chandra prepared a great meal of spaghetti, fish, vegetables and
dessert. Cloud was settling on the peaks and the air temperature dropped
as a frost gripped the land. After dinner, we headed off to bed to warm up in
our sleeping bags. The staff settled down in the hut for the night.
On 5th when we awoke, the tent was stiff with
frost. It was a relief to get up after spending 11 hours in the tent. The
morning was clear and the cloud was lifting off the surrounding valleys. Once
we had breakfast and packed up we set off down the side of the Tangbharm Danda
Range. There was a long sidle above the Ghunsa Khola. On
the way, we saw some snowcocks running up the slopes making a racket. There
were views of a spectacular mountain to the east that might have been
Gundsadhar or Nyukla Lachung.
Into the forest, we went, on down to Ghunsa, on a
well-defined trail. We stopped at the Kanchenjunga Guest House. Himali Chungdak, a local man
owned this establishment. He is chairman
of the Snow Leopard Conservation sub-committee and the Ghunsa Lower secondary
school. His son, Dharke looked after a small shop there. We had a basic but
comfortable room and there was a lovely dining/meeting room nearby in another
building. Paula went off for a cold shower and I later followed suit.
Everything was clean and welcoming. Chandra and his team produced yet another
amazing dinner.
After an early breakfast, we set off up the valley, through
a pleasant valley walk in the forest, then up a moraine wall to a hanging
valley containing the attractive village of Kambachen. There we took rooms in
the "White Hotel". This was well ventilated and between the slats,
one could see outside. It was a bit
draughty! The altitude was 4155m.
In the afternoon, I went for a walk by myself up the ridge
behind the village. There was a chorten beside a hut and lots of prayer flags
fluttering on ropes off it. Then I continued up the ridge and higher up I saw a
herd of Bharal or “Blue Sheep”. The males had large curved horns, which are
smooth and radiate out at 90’ to the head. Their pelage is more a slate grey
colour than blue. These are the traditional prey of snow leopards. Continuing
higher up I saw a flock of maybe 50 black birds circling among the cliffs.
Initially I had visions of climbing a peak behind the village but it was still
a long way above me and mist was starting to drift in so I returned to our
hotel.
I had a good sleep though I had to get up twice during the
night and brave the rickety stairs going down to the toilet. It was an accident
waiting to happen but ‘Safety and Health’ legislation is unknown in Nepal just
like building codes. After breakfast, the girls and I set off for Jannu BC up a
nearby valley. There is a gob smacking view of Jannu from the town. Dropping
back down the track and across the bridge, we climbed up on the lateral moraine
wall of the Kumbhakarna Glacier and followed along its crumbling crest towards
Jannu BC. This was not a good route though it was quite scenic. Higher up we
dropped off its crest into the ablation valley on its true right and found a
good track heading up easy slopes to a meadow at about 4500m where there were a
few stone circles. The day was sunny and warm and the views were breathtaking
of the “Wall of Shadows” and the massive nipple of the summit pyramid of Jannu.
We stretched out on the dry grass to enjoy the views and have a rest.
Arriving back at lunchtime we found a huge group of 80
people at Kambachen. These were competitors and support people for the “Great
Himalayan Race”, an “organised” race along the Great Himalayan Trail. We were a
bit shocked, as no one was aware they were coming and it appeared to be very
badly organised.
We decided to walk up the Nupchu Khola for the day to 4550m.
There was a good track on the true right and spectacular view of Sarphu 4,
Tangga, Ngphu, Nupchu and other unnamed peaks, all heavily glaciated. Although
it was sunny, it was cool, as a cold wind blew up the valley. We got back at
lunchtime and lazed around the rest of the day. The plan was to strike out
early for Pangpema and return to Lhonak for the night. The porters would carry
only as far as Lhonak.
We arose early. Paula was already organised and left at 5.00
am by herself in the dark. The rest of us set off at 6.00 with first light. It
was a steady plod up through the snow covered forest and up the ablation
valleys to Lhonak, a bleak village on a barren brown plain surrounded by
mountains and the lateral moraine of the Kanchenjunga Glacier at 4780m. There
we had a short break. Then it was
off to Pangpema. Penny and Govinda were well ahead and Nina and I took up the
rear. We stopped at 5140m
at a huge rock as there was no sign of the others and I did not know how far it
was to Pangpema. A frigid wind blew up the valley. We had some lunch. As it
turned out we had only a short distance to go to the 2 huts there but we could
not see them from our vantage point.
After some food, we turned down the valley into a freezing
wind, back to Lhonak. We had only arrived when the others appeared. We had a
surprisingly pleasant night in one of the huts there. During the night when I
got up, the moon was spotlighting the landscape and it was absolutely still
apart from a mournful cry that echoed off the hillsides from an unseen animal.
On 10th we left Lhonak for the long decent to
Kambachen and Ghunsa. A cold wind still blew up the valley but it grew warmer
as we lost height. One of the porters had a headache and this disappeared as we
descended. Once we hit the bush line, Paula and I strode out in front. We reached Ghunsa in 3.5 hours. The first order was a
hot shower but for some reason or other, the flame of the gas burner went out
on me, so it was a glacial one instead. It was absolutely frigid in Ghunsa and
I dreaded to think what it must be like up at Lhonak, 1200m higher.
The 11th was a rest day. I did some laundry once
the pipes thawed out and we had some water. At 10.00 am, Himali took us to the
Ghunsa Lower Secondary School for a tour. When we arrived the 43 children were
doing their PE, which was very inspiring. Although the sun was shining, the air
temperature was cold. The children were from Ghunsa and the surrounding
villages. We saw a hostel in the school that looked spartan with no heating in
the draughty rooms. Sangay Tempa was one of the teachers who spoke excellent
English and who conducted the tour. There was no hot water and only 2 toilets,
one for boys and one for girls. The children sang a song for us and seemed
excited to have foreign visitors.
I asked Sangay what were their greatest needs and he replied
with this list: First, warm clothing for
the children; second, nutritious food; thirdly, fencing to keep out the yaks;
fourth, better toilets and warm showers. I think we were all a bit shocked at
what we regarded as very basic needs, the lack of government support and the
poverty. On behalf of our team, I promised Himali that I would send him some
financial support for the school. We sent $1000.00 later when we got home.
Lastly, we visited the health post and were impressed that there was some
medical help for the village from a health worker.In the evening we watched a video on snow leopards and Himali role in
protecting them. It was called “Protecting the God’s Pet” by WWF. It was very
inspirational.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccZ7q9FRXZ0
On 12th we left Himali and Ghunsa. We said farewell to this
remarkable man and walked out the gate and headed off to the bridge across the
Ghunsa Khola. A trail led down the true right to a memorial near the turnoff to
the Yangma Samba Khola. This was for a tragic helicopter crash in 2006 in which
many local and World Wildlife people died. Just past this was a steep climb up
through rhododendron forest on a narrow trail to a 4200m where we camped. It
had clouded in on the peaks and the air temperature was freezing.
On 13th we had a lovely breakfast of porridge
provided by Chandra followed by egg and pancakes. Paula and I set off first and
made a great time up to the Nango La at 4776m. From here there were fantastic
views of the Sarphu Peaks to the north and below them were the moraine walls of
glaciers.
There was
a huge descent into the Thasa Khola down to flats where we stopped for lunch.
The forest here was of tall dark conifers among smaller rhododendron forest.
The country was wild in comparison to the previous places we had visited. Then,
it was a steep descent down through the forest and a steep sidle leftwards down
to the Yangma Khola. We crossed a bridge and
headed down the true right beside the turbulent river. A short distance down we
came to a huge rock bivvy.
I took one look at the bivvy and it was love at first sight.
“Yeah, this will do Govinda” who looked a bit doubtful. Shortly after Nina
arrived and looked utterly crestfallen when I pointed out our new home. The
fact was that there were precious few safe camping places in the upper valley
as it was so narrow with huge crumbling cliffs overlooking the river. An
earthquake would send the whole lot crashing down into the valley but our giant
rock would likely survive.
There was a small flat grassy space just below the bivvy
rock and I suggested Nina and Penny camp there, which they did. Paula and I put
down a ground sheet in the bivvy rock and slept there that night. At 4 pm
Chandra served us some soup and for dinner, we had more BC Cuisine. I was
looking forward to reaching Magawa next day.
We had a comfortable night in the rock bivvy and it was the
warmest night for a while. Our altitude was around 3200m. After dawn, the staff
stirred into activity as did Penny and Nina. We hit the trail at 7.30 am, down
the Yangma Khola. The track was well made with numerous ups and downs through
the wildest forest to date over an exceedingly steep country. In many places,
the track clung to cliff faces where a misstep would end badly far below in the
river, now a turbulent mass of white water. The forest was a mix of bamboo,
rhododendron and conifers. The only sound was the chirping of unseen birds and
the roar of the Yangma Khola. We came to some massive climbs nearing the
junction with the Tamor Khola, which we crossed on a bridge.
We carried on along the true left for a very long way up and
down cliffs in dense forest. Eventually, there was a big
descent to the Tamor, which we crossed on a bridge over a waterfall and carried
on along a trail on the true right to Inladauda. Here we stayed in a lovely
Sherpa house. Nina looked exhausted as were the porters. We had dropped 1000m.
Nina saw a huge spider in her room, which caused some concern but then it
disappeared…out of sight, out of mind.
Last night there was thunder and heavy rain rattle drumming
on the tin roof. However, the day dawned clear and fresh with the welcoming
smell of fresh wet earth. I took off by myself to enjoy the solitude and
harmony of the forest and to quietly reflect on the many sights and experiences
of this trip. It was now much warmer so I delayered down to shorts and shirt. Once regrouped, we carried on to Lelep where we stayed in a hotel
called “The Jondup Hotel”.
On 16th it was a lovely clear day. We set off
down the hill to the river and walked along nice river flats to Taplethok where
we crossed the river to the true left. Here the road started and it was pretty
boring walking along this to Chirwa where we stayed in another bucolic hotel. Govinda wanted to go
by the road to Mitlung and take the road up to Taplejung but I said we’d prefer
to go by the track to Linkhim and keep well away from the road.
On 17th we left Chirwa along the road and after
about a kilometre we struck up the hillside on a track to Linkhim. This was a
lovely walk, with lots of ups and down through fields of cardamom to the music
of birdcalls. At Linkhim we stopped at a
house and Chandra knocked up a nice lunch for us. Then it was more ups and
downs across 2 kholas till we reached Phurumbu where we camped at the secondary
school, which was built by the Koreans. It was a lovely place with a great view
of Phathibhara Peak 3794m, above us. There was a Hindu temple on top and a
popular place of pilgrimage.
On 18th we set off on a 300m climb up the
hillside for a view of Taplejung further on. We reached this after a few hours.
It was dirty and noisy and we stayed at a hotel there. Needless to say, the
bathroom was peculiar with a highly complicated gas heated shower that took 3
visits by the staff to get going. Eventually, I got a hot shower but lost my
bar of soap down an open drain hole. Dinner was a regal affair provided by
Chandra and his team complete with a nice cake.
Next day it was a long, tiring drive across the hills to
Ilam where we stayed and next day on to Bhadrapur for our delayed flight to
Kathmandu. This was a tea-growing region ringed with tea plantations so sort of
interesting.
In Kathmandu, we retreated to the sanity of the Shanker Hotel for
the rest of our stay. On 23rd we had a very pleasant dinner at the
Shanker with our team and several heads of NGOs that I'd met previously on our
Nepal Earthquake Survey. At this Mrs, Lakpa presented Bryan Scott and me with a
Tibetan scarves and a lovely picture of the school children at the Shree
Gorakhnath Primary School at Tarkeghygang as a thank you for our support of
their school. Bryan had been with me on
the earthquake survey that we did in Nepal in 2015. Then 2 days later we braved the chaos of
Tribhuvan airport for our flight back to NZ.
