It was an auspicious occasion as the 3 goons met for the first time in so many years in the car park of Waihopai Health Centre in Invercargill one Friday morning. Bryan had transmogrified into a younger ‘Bill Clinton’, lean and poised for action. Jon, the hard bitten Londoner showed no sign of mellowing seemingly impervious to pain and suffering and lastly Don Stanley, Godfather of Invercargill and chief schemer according to Jon. Gear was transferred swiftly into the Green Vitara and they were off. Several hours later they arrived at the shelter at the road end at Chinaman’s Bluff on a sunny, warm afternoon.
After a lazy sorting out and packing they were off, Jon setting a fast pace brought on by the alluring sight of snow capped peaks at the head of the valley. 4 hours later they arrived at Daley’s Flat Hut, which they disdainfully declined to enter being populated by foreign types of lesser ambition. Soon after they crossed the rickety swing bridge over the Dart and thrashed their way up to the Margaret Burn. Briefly pausing on the opposite bank, they started the climb up the true left bank of the Margaret intent on gaining as much height as possible before dark. At 800 metres they reached a less steep slope of moss amid the trees where a comfortable albeit brief night was spent. 5.00 AM arrived shortly afterwards so it seemed and after a brief breakfast they sallied forth to arrive at ‘Middle Earth’ after another 1oo metres. This is a strange land of rock towers and mossy valleys in the bush on the way to Seal Col. There was no sign of Gandalf or his gang so on we climbed to bush line. From here the way is up an enchanting tussock ridge to the now snow covered rock ridge leading to ‘Stanopoulis’ a huge hidden bivi ledge. This Stanley had discovered on a previous visit and had described in glowing terms to a sceptical Jon and Bryan. Alas, it was mostly full of snow and its glory lost on them. Out on the glacier 2 chamois made their way to the Abruzzi Glacier.
After roping up for glacier travel the trio set off towards Seal Col below the beetling ramparts of Johansen Peak.
It was now sunny, hot and windless as they plod up to the 2000 metre line sidling towards ‘Desperation Pass’. One look in had Bryan turn a shade of green but Jon instantly dismissed the difficulties. After a somewhat steep descent of snow slopes they were in the Col and climbing up towards Steffanson Peak. Here they sidled right around the rock tower and then up onto the ridge connecting it to Watkins.
The views towards the Olivines were spectacular while below them was the broad expanse of the Derivation Icefields. A long sidle under Gino Peak took them to Glacier Col.
Albert Peak is 2353 metres high and is the most spectacular peak at the head of the Margaret Glacier. On Glacier Col the trio dropped their packs and climbed up to the base of Albert Peak on the west side. They selected a snow couloir and at the top of this climbed up shattered rock to within 20 feet of the top. As it was late in the day and the rock so dangerous they decided it was not worth the risk in trying to climb it. Perversely there was an all snow route on the South East face that was eminently climbable. Back on the Col they found a flattish ledge set up camp. The fly was pitched and a comfortable night was spent there.
Another 5 AM start and they headed into the Margaret Icefall on a descending traverse. Over on the right side was a steep 1000’ snow slopes that they backed down.
Then it was down the Margaret Glacier to the corner at 1500 metres where an easy slope took them up onto the slopes of Mt Hedin.
They contoured along at 1600 metres to cross several steep gullies to arrive onto tussock terraces joining up with Stan’s old route on Hedin. A chamois stood guard on a high bluff. The route down the bush was straightforward and the walk out to the car was all on automatic pilot.
Summary: A traverse of the Barrier Range from Seal Col to Glacier Col on 15-17 January 2010 including an ascent of Albert Peak to within 20’ below summit by Jon Taylor, Bryan Scott and Stanley Mulvany
