Sea Kayaking Adventures in Greenland

 

Sea Kayaking to Prins Christian Sund

 

In 2014 I led a sea kayaking trip to Tasermiut Fjord in Southwest Greenland and on the last day in Nanortalik, I climbed the mountain behind the town and looked south to a hazy coastline disappearing into an archipelago of islands, the gateway to the renowned Prins Christian Sund Fjord. A look at the map showed a vast network of fjords like the spokes of a wheel radiating out from Augpilagtoq, the most southerly village in Greenland. All mysterious and alluring. I had to return.

This time we had a different team in Mark and Lisa from Sydney joining Belinda and myself, making a party of 4. We left Invercargill on 11^th July 2015 and arrived on 14^th in Copenhagen where we stayed in an airport hotel. Mark and Lisa arrived shortly after us. Next morning we boarded our Air Greenland flight across the North Atlantic to Narsarsuaq. The views of the icecap as we descended into Narsarsuaq  were not as good as the previous year. I was sitting beside a very interesting Danish fisherman called Kim Hoegh-Dam who told me stories about Greenland and fishing there.

At Narsarsuag we had a chance meeting with Niels wife, Emilie and Camilla Ianke, a Norwegian sea kayaking guide, I had been in contact with before this trip. Camilla comes out every year to lead commercial trips for her company ‘Northern Exposure’. I had organised my own private expedition and had rented 4 Rainbow Laser 5.5 sea kayaks from a Frenchman called Yann Guillou, whom we had met in Nanortalik, the previous year. There was a quick changeover to a helicopter in Narsarsuaq that flew us to Qaqortog and then on to Nanortalik. When we landed at the heliport in Nanortalik, Niels was waiting and took us to ‘Matilda’, his hostel by the sea where we had stayed the previous year. It was so good to be back. I just love this place, remote, quiet, surrounded by mountains, fjords and ice bergs and no tourons! Niels told us the kayaks were in the garden of the vicar’s house nearby so we went over and had a look and true to Yann’s word, all the kayaks and gear were there. At the supermarket we loaded up with food for the trip. I had already posted over a box of de-hi food and our pockets were stuffed with more de-hi food and muesli bars on the flight.

The weather was gloriously fine though cool. The sea sparkled in the early morning sun as I arose early for a walk around. Later we went to the Burgensi Supermarket and filled up our packs with food. Then I went off to see Niels and bought a few gas canisters for our stove and sorted out some things with him. Niels is a delight to deal with, always helpful and knowledgeable. Then it was back to the supermarket for another load of food as we would be out for a month. In the afternoon, Niels came and asked me to have a look at a young Australian paddler who had just come in from a few days out and who was very ill. Nathan had a tummy bug and was very dehydrated but I did not think he needed immediate hospitalisation so I made up some electrolyte replacement solution for him. Later, when I checked on him he was feeling much better though he still had not had a pee that day. I told him to see me again if that continued. Then we got the very sad news that Mark’s mother was seriously ill with a stroke in hospital. It did not seem like she was going to survive.

 

I slept poorly that night and pondered Mark’s situation. It would be impractical for him to return as it would be at least 3 days flying and highly unlikely he could get a seat on the planes out of Greenland at short notice as these are heavily booked over the short summer here. Next day he asked me if we could postpone the trip by 2 weeks so he could fly home to Australia. Unfortunately this was an impractical suggestion as we would not have enough time to complete our mission to reach Prins Christian Sund and of course the summers are short here so we could be running into winter if we left it too late.

We loaded up and hit the water at 10.00am and set off towards Tuapait. Just around the headland we were amazed to see some Muskoxen. They are right through the Arctic in North America and in Northeast Greenland but not in the SW so I figured it was a re-introduction. Niels confirmed this later. Muskoxen along with the North American bison are one of the few large animals to have survived the ice ages in North America and Greenland and is entirely at ease on the tundra. It is similar to the Highland cattle of Scotland though bigger, with long hair and a huge head crowned with rapier like horns curved forward close to the head. They move with measured steps, placidly across the landscape. I hope the locals leave them in peace. A peculiar habit is that if they are agitated they rub their eye on inside of their foreleg, an ominous sign if close to them.

 

 

After this interlude we turned our kayaks south and crossed to the south shore of Tasermiut Fjord, then around the huge headland into the open Labrador Sea. We followed big sea cliffs along the coast and after about 5 kilometers we entered a passage between an island and the headland and stopped for lunch. There was an old Norse ruin, just a deep depression surrounded by earth walls and a tall stalky grass. I noticed steam drifting over the hill nearby and walked over to find a tepid shallow pool, not enough to get excited about. We then set off across a wide bay for 6-7 kilometers to enter a narrow channel heading in a SE direction. My back was killing me on this stretch so we pulled into a beach for a spell. Then off we paddled till we came to a deserted house at a place called Igdlukasik. Here we set up camp inside. It first needed a bit of a tidy up but it was OK camping on the floor. On the hill above was a large cross and at least 8 graves. The graves hereabouts are just piles of rock placed over the body and looking down you can see skulls and bones of the deceased. There was a melancholy air about this deserted place and looking down at the ruined house and rusting child’s swing outside, I could imagine a way of life swept away in the changing way of life of the Inuit people. Off shore a few seals were periscoping and keeping an eye on us.

 

We had a comfortable night in the house and greeted by a lovely day with no sign of the high cloud predicted on Mark’s InReach satellite tracker. We paddled south between islands to an opening towards the ocean. Here there was a large iceberg and the current was flowing strongly around it to the sea ruffling the surface in boils and eddies. Belinda said to follow her and set off into this paddling strongly. The rest of us followed. We followed more sea cliffs on a bumpy sea to the opening to Sandhavn on the left. Here there were some icebergs across the entrance and we turned them on the inside. Mark set off into the bay till we told him we should push on southwards towards Herjolfsnes. Later we came to a bay with a sandy beach at the head and the remains of a house on a hill and we landed there.

 

 

 

What a delightful place, a peninsula surrounded by steep mountains and the remains of an ancient church and some Norse ruins scattered about. Herjolfsnes was a Norse settlement established in 985 by Herjolf Bardsson, about 50 km northwest of Cape Farewell. Herjolf accompanied Eric the Red in the great exodus from Iceland in 985. Eric and his kinsmen chose to settle away from the sea further north deep in the fjords where the weather was milder and where the land was more suited to farming. Herjolf probably decided to settle at this place and use it as a trading post for incoming ships to the Norse settlements. It was the most southerly and easternmost homestead of the colony’s Eastern Settlement.

It was a lovely day with little wind as we set up camp. The flies were bad so we needed our headnets right away. Once that was done I went off to find a stream for a wash and then I noticed a lead up cliffs to a pointy peak about 500m above me to the right of a prominent waterfall. I set off by myself and climbed up some easy slabs and steep slopes and ledges to the upper part of the mountain. There was an absolute riot of colourful flowers and it was a peaceful and enjoyable climb with no drama. The summit when I got there was a narrow rocky platform with sheer drops all around. I could see to the head of the Herjolfsfjord where there were many grounded icebergs and directly across was Fredericksdal or Narsap Kujalleq as it is now called. I lazed alone on the summit reflecting on how lucky we were to be here in such a remote and stunningly beautiful place.

We had a pleasant camp near the ruins. All that remained of the church were low stone walls. The Norse houses were depressions surrounded by earth wall and tall grass. The sun snuck up over the mountains at 6.00am and warmed up the tent. It was another lovely, windless day. We had a few minutes of worship in the old church, a spiritually uplifting experience before we paddled off at 9.00am.

It was a 3 km crossing to Narsap Kujalleq past numerous icebergs. On the way I learned that Mark’s mum had just died. We landed at the village on a small beach. Niels had given me the name of the school teacher, Lars Ejnar Kuist, when I asked him about leaving a week’s food there. I asked one of the locals where Lars lived and he pointed towards a grey house just behind the school. Lars and his blind wife Mina were lovely people and invited us in for coffee and buns. We spent a pleasant few hours with them. They graciously let us store a week’s supplies with them for our return voyage and then we went to the little store to buy a few drinks and ice cream. Interestingly, Lars only had 8 children in the school and talked about the population decline in the small villages right through Kujalleq. I think the population is around 50 in the village. He showed us the small but very colourful church in the village and I regretted I did not have a chance to attend a church service as it was a Wednesday.

By the time we got away there was a strong onshore breeze. We rounded the headland and paddled into the channel between the mainland and Nunarssuaq, a large offshore island. I was not paying attention to the map and thought we must be coasting Pamiagdluk Island till Mark pointed out the error. We then had a tough paddle in a strong wind across the fjord back to the mainland. Here steep mountains were dropping into the fjord and we found a small bay backed with a boulder beach and landed there. On the terrace above that was a suitable campsite. Unloading the kayaks we carried them up to above high tide line and tied them off.

I slept well till the early hours of the morning and then my mind drifted over many troubling thoughts. Foremost was the recent passing of a good Scottish friend, someone I’d known for many years and who I visited last year in Scotland. I had planned to revisit Donald next year and spend some time with him but now his untimely death foreclosed that option. I decided I would hold a short memorial service for him here in Greenland and I’m sure he would have liked that. I got up quietly so as not to disturb Belinda and went for a walk and took some photos. After I wandered back to camp I got the stove going and made breakfast. Mark and Lisa were already up and packing. We got on the water at 8.45am and paddled about 20 km northward past spectacular mountains to Stordalens Havn. Towards the end of the paddle the mountains were giant pinnacles 1500-1700m high and dropped vertically into the fjord. The ice increased a lot too and seemed very close packed where the fjord took a right turn towards Augpilagtoq. We landed and found a camp site at an old Norse ruin on the left at the head of a small bay. There was a freezing cold wind though it was still sunny. As the sun sank to the west, the temperature dropped precipitously so we headed off to bed early.

 

The wind died during the night and mist drifted in around us so it was warmer next morning. We packed up and were off early heading east towards Augpilagtoq, following the left side of the fjord. The ice gradually thickened as we closed on Augpilagtoq and was close packed where the fjord turned northward. We were following narrow leads around a rocky headland weaving in and out around enormous icebergs. Eventually we found a lead into the small harbour through the narrow entrance which was almost blocked with ice. Inside it was pretty clear and we landed on a seaweed clogged foreshore and pulled our kayaks up. As we were all bursting for a pee we walked up the rocky hill behind the town to find a private spot. The view out towards the fjords showed lots of ice but quite big leads between the floes. We bought some bread and cinnamon loaf and drinks in the small store that was surprisingly well stocked. On the tiny harbour jetty was a French yacht and we went over for a chat.

 

Then we took off and at the entrance noticed the ice if anything was worse and fast moving in the current. Here we made a stupid mistake and followed a narrow lead between the cliff and the ice and to our horror found it closed off behind us almost immediately. Belinda jumped up on the rock to look for more leads and spotted some out to our right and shouted for us to hurry before they closed. So Lisa and I took off at great speed and reached more open leads in the centre of the fjord and waited and waited and then became alarmed when Mark and B did not appear. I was just about to dash back in when Mark and B appeared somewhat shaken as B had got jammed between 2 ice floes coming together and only with difficulty managed to break free. We resolved never to enter close pack ice again. Out in the middle of the fjord the ice was still moving fast in the current but the leads were big so we had no difficulty in reaching Kangerdluk Fjord and found a camping place at Ivssortussut. It was warm and inviting with spectacular views and it was good to be here.

We woke to an overcast day. I suggested we stay here and go for a walk up Kangerdluk Fjord and climb up to the pass that led to Taserssuaq Lake that I reached the previous year from the other side. It was a nice pleasant walk over undulating slopes covered in dwarf birch and willow.  Near the head of the fjord Belinda said she’d make her way back and the rest of us climbed up about 200m to a hill overlooking a hanging valley where we stopped for lunch. The day was now sunny with glorious views and we slowly made our way back. In the evening B and I went for a walk to have a look at Ivssortussut Lake where the locals often swim. Unfortunately we were blocked in reaching it by a river so I missed my swim. As we were having dinner Camilla and her team paddled into the bay. They camped on the other side of the river and she came over for a chat. She told us the local inuit had shot 3 polar bears recently which was slightly worrying news.

The following day we paddled over to Nuk, which is about 8 km away. There is a symmetrical smooth ridge gently dropping off a high mountain to the pointed headland that separates Kangikitsoq from Nup Kangerdlua fjords.  The day was gloriously fine and ahead there appeared to be a lot of ice but closer in there were wide open leads leading in to the headland. We landed in a shallow bay where there were 2 seal carcases lying on the rocks and just behind the bay were the derelict ruins of inuit huts and rubbish scattered about, not a pleasant site. We then paddled up Kangikitsoq Fjord and camped on a pleasant flat at its head. The flats were surrounded by spectacular mountains and backed by odd conical shaped hills about 20-30m high similar to the Tuktoyaktuk Pingos in the Northwest Territories of Canada. I spent the rest of the day establishing a camp and washing clothes.

The 23^rd July was Belinda’s birthday so I stole away from the camp early for a walk up one of the pingos and to get the lie of the land. It was B’s birthday so she slept in till 9.30am just as Mark, Lisa and I were about to head off for a walk up Tupaussat Dalen. We wound our way around the pingos and then found we had to climb up scrub covered slopes on the left side of the valley overlooking Drepanocladus Dam, a small lake ahead. It looked like a real slog up and down boulder slopes so I thought we’d just have a spell and admire the view and head back. On the way back, Lisa and I collected a bouquet of wild flowers and presented them plus a camera mug, a present from Tara to Belinda. Mark and Lisa also gave her a birthday present which was very thoughtful. After lunch, while B went walkabout among the pingos and Mark and Lisa did a lot of laundering, I set off up the left hand valley towards the pass leading to Qinnguadalen. I followed up a creek and reached a great snowbank spanning the river that ran underneath it. Eventually I came to a hanging valley with river flats and further on another pass. To my right was peak 1112m and I contemplated climbing it but figured I did not have enough time after our walk up the other valley that day. 

Back at camp I brought out the birthday cake I’d taken along and put some candles in it and had a wee celebration for Belinda. We decided next day to head back down the fjord and check out the cabin the others had seen on the left side and the ice conditions in Nup Kangerdlua. As usual we retired early once the sun dipped and the temperature dropped. By contrast, Mark and Lisa would sit in their deckchairs, reading their Kobos and wait until 7.00pm before starting their dinner.

On 24^th we paddled down the fjord under an overcast sky to the huts about 5 km away. One of them was tidy enough and had a gas range and a red wig hanging on a hook on the wall. I could not resist the temptation of donning this and posing outside, like a rock star. We paddled past some enormous icebergs as the sky gradually cleared. At Nup we again stopped for lunch. The seal carcases were still there so we paddled on around the headland into Nup Kangerdlua and after about 7 kms we pulled into a small bay on the left and camped on a nice terrace above the beach. From here there was a view of the tidewater glacier at the head of the fjord. There was a Norse ruin here that we camped near. B and I went off for a wash in a stream and I washed some more clothes and hung them up to dry. We cooked dinner in the Norse ruin as it was out of the wind. We thought we’d use this place as a base camp for exploring the nearby fjords.

On 25^th we left the camp up and paddled away to the tidewater glacier at the head of the fjord on the right.  I could see this had retreated enormously since the map was published in 1987, possibly up to 7 km. The views were great. The ice thickened as we got closer, arriving there at 1.45pm. I was anxious to get back to our camp before the winds arrived so started back by myself as the other were busy taking lots of photos. Needless to say the winds arrived and I found it a battle the last few km across the Kangersuneq Qingordloq Fjord.  Belinda caught up with me and we paddled back together. Mark and Lisa who were stronger paddlers paddled back separately.

We woke to a nice day, partially cloudy with some sunny breaks and little wind. I was up early so was ready on time unlike the previous day. We paddled up Kangersuneq Qingordloq Fjord and found a nice campsite at Inipnua. From here we paddled on up towards the tidewater glacier but were stopped several kms short by lots of ice brash and bergy bits. There were fantastic views of a gently multi-streaked glacier curving down to the sea and calving in a great ice face. After a round of photos we paddled back to our new campsite. There was no wind and the mosquitoes were very bad. On a nearby headland we found some old rock bivies possibly used by inuit hunting parties.

The 27^th dawned fine and windless as we made our way down the fjord under a heavy overcast sky with the mountains wrapped in cloud. However once in the main fjord we faced a strong headwind so we pulled in to our old campsite below Kumait Tasiat. After setting up camp we went for a walk up to the lake several hundred meters above. Cloud still hung on the peaks so I was not keen to go any higher. On the descent, I asked Belinda to accompany me over to some cliffs overlooking the fjord and here I got her to video a small memorial service I held for my good friend Donald who passed away in Scotland, just before I set out for Greenland. Donald had been a friend for 44 yrs since we worked together in Canada as medical students. I wanted to remember him in such an awesome place and send the video to Emma his widow. It was very cold in the evening so we scurried off to bed early.

On 28^th we paddled down to Imerdlugtoq in windless condition on a flat sea. Here there was a tiny beach surrounded by small cliffs so it was an awkward carry to the nice bench above where we set up camp.  Then we went for a walk up the small lake above where we went for a swim. On the other side we could look into Prins Christian Sund, which looked amazing. There was little wind and consequently the insects were very annoying.

It was overcast the next morning with rain to the north over the glaciers and sun breaks over Augpilagtoq to the SW of us across the fjord. Kayaking around the headland we turned east into Prins Christian Sund and landed at Igdlorssuit, a valley where a glacier reached a sandy plain behind the beach. It was a nice area and we set up camp here. Mark, Lisa and Belinda then decided to paddle off to look at Sermerunerit Glacier and I decided to do a walk up to the gorgeous looking glacier across the sandy plain. I had an early lunch and then set off with a small day pack inland. A large glacial river blocked me to the east so I had to keep on the true right to the moraine and white ice. Eventually I reached the white ice and walked up it for several kilometers to an icefall where I stopped. Then I made my way slowly back to camp. The others were in residence and had seen some amazing views of another tidewater glacier.

We had a very cold night down to -6’C with frost on the tent in the morning. We had the usual rush packing up and little wind as we paddled back up Prins Christian Sund. Once around the headland of Qagik we had a 10-knot headwind and started off across the 3 km wide fjord that we could follow south to Augpilagtoq. It was a bit of a slog and on the other side we stopped for a breather on a beach and then carried on to Augpilagtoq. There was still quite a bit of ice around but a lot less then the previous week. This time we had no difficulty in entering the small harbour and after landing we made a bee line for the small shop to buy some luxuries. We had lunch on some rocks above the harbour and then started out across the fjord to find a camping place at Umiagssat on Pamiagdluk Island. This was easier said then done as the tide was in and we had to land on rocks and carry the kayaks up to above high tide line. There was an old campsite here and great views. A cold wind kept the flies at bay. In the evening a small red freighter came up the fjord to Augpilagtoq and returned later. As usual I went off by myself for a wash in a creek.  

The 31^st July saw us paddling past fantastic icebergs to the Torssukatak fjord but near Iglugssat the wind arrived and from then onwards we had an increasing headwind. We followed the east side and had been told by Lars that there were 2 camping sites there but none looked promising to us. The wind increased and I found it hard to make much progress at all and contemplated doing an emergency stop but it all looked desperate with no possibility of pitching the tent on the very steep slopes dropping into the fjord. Then thankfully at Sivingaup Nua, the wind eased off and we crossed over to the western side and reached our old campsite opposite Nunarssuaq. We had paddled 25 kms mostly against a headwind and I had had enough for 1 day. We were now about 10 kms from Fredericksdal.

Next morning as I was getting up I glanced out over the fjord to see a huge cruise ship passing. B was out in a flash to take some photos, an unusual occurrence for B so early in the morning. So once up we could make an early start for Fredericksdal. We had a light headwind and arrived with no difficulty mid-morning. We went straight to the shop and bought some cheese, bread, soft drinks and jam. Then off we went to see Lars and Mima. They were delighted to see us and soon we were having coffee and scones in their kitchen. Their daughter was visiting and she was studying teaching at Nuuk, the capital of Greenland in the north. We picked up our weeks food they were looking after and crossed over to Herjolfsnes and set up camp. We lazed around for the rest of the day.

We decreed the next day a ‘rest day’. The weather was fine and we set off to climb Ikigait Qagat which I’d already climbed on our inward journey. B and I set off first as M&L were not ready and followed later. Mark ‘anchored his kayak’ because he said the heat would spoil his food but it did not work out as when the tide went out the kayak sank onto weed covered rocks! We reached the narrow summit at about 430m and later the others arrived. Again there were masses of colourful flowers on the climb. I left them and carried on up to the higher peak at 930m while they lazed around the lesser summit. On the higher summit was a flag pole and cairns. The views all around were spectacular, to the west the archipelago of islands and to the east Fredericksdal. Back at the lower peak Belinda pointed out a row of new kayaks on the beach way below us, likely Camilla’s party. M&L went ahead and B and I stayed for a bath in the creek on the way back. Back at Herjolfsnes  M and L met Camilla just as she was leaving.

On 3^rd August we left Herjolfsnes and paddled up Herjolfsnes Fjord to its head where it branches. We took the right hand one and weaved among lots of huge icebergs to land on a delightful sandy beach beside a river. It was a most dramatic place surrounded by huge mountains with a waterfall spilling over a high cliff further up valley. After setting up camp we set off up the left hand branch. This was only about 5 km long and its head was also crowded with huge icebergs. We paddled among them and reached the very head of it. Here was a ‘no-frills’ Inuit Hut perched on a rock. It was not an inviting place to stay. I was worried about the head wind for the return so was keen to get back. Sure enough it turned into a real battle against strong headwinds that almost stopped me at times. We eventually got back and decided to spend a ‘rest day’ there. 

The plan was to cross the river and climb up a series of ramps to a col and then to follow what looked like an easy ridge to a summit about 750m, high on the right side of the valley. As the river and tide were high, we took the kayaks across and left them on the opposite bank. It was an easy walk up the valley and then a climb up steep scrubby slopes between rock bands to a wide col maybe 3-4 hundred meters above the valley floor. On the other side we looked up to a massive waterfall spilling down from a hanging valley between mountain ranges. I knew up there was a huge lake but there did not seem to be any easy way to reach it.  B decided not to go any further so the rest of us continued up easy rocks and slabs to the aforementioned ridge to arrive eventually on the summit at 750m. We could now look across the valley and see some of the lake that fed the waterfall. A rainbow reflected off it half way down the cliff. On the other side of our peak, there was a vertical drop to a partially ice covered lake and at its head some needle shaped peaks or aiguilles. We had a round of photos and then descended back down the ramps. The tide was out when we got back and the river fast and still deep, so it was an awkward ferry glide across and lining the kayaks back down to the other side. It had been a great day and I revelled in the climbing.

On 5^th the ice fog had enveloped us when we awoke so I went back to bed till 9.00am. B and I started off at 10.30am up the main valley and climbed up to another partially frozen lake at 400m. Mark and Lisa followed later. There was a gorgeous view all around and I was tempted to carry on past the lake and climb up to a col high above us. Instead we opted to have a quick immersion in the freezing lake but not Mark and Lisa who beat a hasty retreat. There was a cold wind all day and at 5pm the ice fog returned.

We woke to a misty windless morning and paddled off among the icebergs and made fast time down Herjolfsnes Fjord to have a comfort stop back at our old campsite at the ruins. Then on we paddled past Sandhavn to the entrance to the large bay on the right. It appeared to be quite calm though the tide was ebbing and we had no difficulty in entering the bay apart from a bit of a push at the immediate entrance. Once inside we paddled back to the house at Igdukasik in drizzle and settled in. It was freezing cold and grey outside so nice to have some shelter. The forecast was not good for the next few days. Next day the barometric pressure had fallen to 999mb, so we spent another day there. Later we went for walk across the low grey rocky hills. It was a rather dismal landscape.

On 8^th we got underway again. It was misty, cold and calm as we paddled up the east side of the island chain. After about 10 kms we turned west into a narrow channel against a strong tide, then followed the mainland into a narrow bay guarded by stranded icebergs. Here we landed to camp on a nice flat area leading to a 250 meter portage to Tasermiut Fjord. In the afternoon we moved the kayaks and some of the gear over to the other side. Then I went for a walk into the hills to a lake on the north side and had a swim in it. The sun came out and it was very pleasant and relaxing just being there on my own.

The following day we set off down the inlet on the other side and found this shallowed out at low tide and we had to line the kayaks down a short stream. Ahead it was quite windy and we had a headwind right away. Once out in the main channel we turned north and had the wind broadside and after Naujat Nuat it was a tailwind. We stopped at a beach just past the point for a spell. Then it was a long haul to Tasiussaq, the only village in Tasermiut Fjord.  To the east of it was a large bay that we entered as I wanted to camp on the other side. I did intend to camp at Nalasut but as we closed on it, there appeared to be a number of houses.  I thought we might not be welcomed so followed the coast along and camped half a kilometer away.  This was a pity as I learned next day that the house was vacant and we could have had a nice evening there. Instead everyone was annoyed with me for selecting our camping place. The others wanted to carry on up the fjord next day but I was not keen as this was not the original plan and I was concerned about the windy forecast. It was decided I would stay here and do some climbs by myself and the others would carry on. I think this was a reasonable compromise.

The next day we paddled back to Tasiussaq where we landed in the lee of the village. In the store we bought more supplies which we divied up. The store man told me people were allowed to stay at Nalasut as long as they left the empty house as they found it. That seemed like a good base to hang out in so after bidding the others adieu I paddled back with a strong tailwind to land there.  There were several buildings that had been used as sheds for sheep, a huge barn and an empty house. The latter had a notice on the front door and the first word was “Tikilluarit” which means ‘Welcome’ so that sounded OK. Inside were several bedrooms, a nice lounge and kitchen and furniture. I sorted out my gear and went for a climb to Putooruttoq, a 1500m peak across the valley. It was a windy day and I was glad not to be out paddling and wondered how the others were faring. I climbed an outlier of the mountain to 546m that had good views towards Tasersuaq Lake and the main Tasermiut Fjord. I was feeling very tired and as the wind was freezing cold I returned early to Nalasut. The house was a Godsend as Belinda had the tent and all I had was a small fly. I thought they were in for a tough time as the forecast was not great.

On the Tuesday it was calm and overcast and fog had drifted in from the main fjord so I suspected an onshore wind. The barometric pressure had dropped 8 mb overnight so I expected bad weather was coming. I went for a walk up the hill behind the house to 364m for a view. The peaks were shrouded in low cloud and the views were monochromatic. Back at the house I noticed the pressure had dropped another 4 mb. Before they left Mark had told me high winds were forecast for the Wednesday and I wondered if the front had arrived early. If so I thought I should paddle over to Tasiussaq next day and get an updated forecast and camp over there so I could watch the main fjord which I could not see from Nalasut. In the evening the wind dropped and the sun came out and the mountains looked awesome. I had high hope for the morrow.

I made an early start to beat the wind but just as I was about to launch it seemed to pick up and once out in the little bay it looked quite daunting so I pulled in further along and waited. I could look across at the houses at Tasiussaq about 2 km away across a small channel but the wind was driving in from the main fjord and it did not look easy. I desperately wanted the forecast so finally I decided to go for it. I raced out into the channel and half way across regretted my decision as I had a furious headwind and was barely moving. It was too late to turn and I just battled along clawing my way into the bay behind the town. It was a relief to land and I walked into the town and the store where I got the forecast which indicated the wind was to drop that night. Returning to my kayak I paddled along the coast to a deserted beach and pulled in, safer to leave my gear here. Then I went for a walk along the track up the hill behind the village to get a view of the main fjord. Needless to say it was blowing a gale up there and way below the fjord was a mass of whitecaps.  On the way back I bumped into 2 Belgians, Barbara and Diddy who had come overland from Narsarsuaq using a pack raft to cross the fjords and lakes. We went back to the shop and I spoke to Niels in Nanortalik on the phone who confirmed the winds were to moderate that night. We decided to bivy outside the town. In the evening I met a man called Martin Doble, an Arctic scientist from a yacht anchored nearby called the “Dodo Delight”. They had just spent 3 months climbing in Greenland. He was most interesting to talk to and eager to hear of my trip. He invited me to visit them in Nanortalik when I got back. I managed to string up the fly against a big boulder near the Belgian’s camp outside the village and had a comfortable night’s sleep. During the night I saw a wonderful display of the “Northern Lights”. It appeared as pulses of yellow light streaking across the sky in a SE direction.

I rose early next day and quietly packed up, wrote a note to Niels and gave it to the Belgians just before I left. I shoved off at 7.15am in windless conditions and quickly paddled past Tasiussaq village into the main fjord. The plan was to paddle across to Aniggoq about 3 km away, the narrowest part of the fjord. Closer to the other side I struck a strong headwind driving south down the fjord. I paddled north about halfway to Nua and pulled in for a spell near a creek. By now it was blowing a gale so I decided not to continue and wait here till about 3pm to see if the others turned up. I was guessing they were on the way back and would likely paddle along the west side of the fjord. I had a bath in the creek and washed/dried my clothes. Up on the high bank behind the creek I could see the shore for several kilometers and scanned it repeatedly with my telephoto lens. Then at 2.30pm, I started to load up and I was just about to leave when I spotted them paddling along. I was ecstatic to see them. They duly arrived and Belinda recounted how she had been blown around in the strong wind.  They were in good spirits and had reached the head of the fjord to land near the Sermeq Glacier. B reported there was massive glacial recession since we were last here a year ago. We decided to camp here as B was tired.

On 14^th there was a moderate headwind as we set off. Just past Aniggoq there was a nice valley on the right that would have been a nice campsite. On we paddled and after 20 kms arrived at Tasiussarssuk where there was a pink cabin in immaculate condition with bunks, gas stove and kitchen. It was too good to use so we camped near the beach. B then went off in her kayak up the lagoon to photograph a waterfall at the head of the valley. I was feeling tired and contemplated lying down but then I looked up at the peak behind the camp and decided to go for a walk instead. It is called Perserajuk 930m high. I started off, contouring up in a westerly direction till I came up against a deep gully which forced me to climb straight up. It was very straightforward and the higher I got the more energised I became. Once I saw the summit cairn in the distance there was no stopping me and I topped out in just over 2 hours. I was just wearing my merino boxers and light weight thermal top as I was moving fast but on the summit it was bitterly cold. There was a forest of stone cairns. I took a round of photos and then descended in 1 hour and 5 minutes. It was one of my happiest days on the trip.

On 15^th we woke to -6’C with frost on the tent. Conditions were calm as we paddled back to Nanortalik which we reached at 10.30am. Niels arrived shortly afterwards and opened ‘Matilda’ his cottage for us. Then it was a big cleanup. We washed all the lifejackets and spray skirts and dried them. In the afternoon I went to visit Martin and his team on the ‘Dodo Delight’. They were a group of young climbers, all very welcoming and shared a cup of tea with me. Martin told me that he saw in Niel’s shop a book on a NZ woman who had paddled around NZ. I said that was my daughter Tara. The skipper Bob is apparently quite well known for taking climbing parties on his yacht in Greenland. They were to leave next day for Cape Farewell and then sail across the North Atlantic to Scotland.

The following day we took the kayaks and left them at the Royal Arctic warehouse in Nanortalik as Yann had asked. Then B and I attended the Lutheran service in the lovely church in Nanortalik. It was all spoken in Greenlandic but there was a nice ambience to the service that I enjoyed.  

On 17th I went for a walk before the others got up enjoying the lovely peace and scenery of the town. I was sad to leave. I could live here. Then we took the PFDs and spray skirts over to the warehouse to store in the kayaks. In the office the staff were non-plussed about the kayaks so I saw the manager and explained the situation. I asked him to check with head office as Yann had arranged with them to store and ship his kayaks around to Ammassalik.  At lunchtime we took the helicopter to Narsarsuaq. I was very sad to leave this most endearing place that I greatly enjoyed. It was also very sad to say goodbye to Niels who had become a trusted friend. I hoped we’d meet again maybe in NZ. At Narsarsuaq we stayed at the Blue Ice hostel. The place was overrun with Spanish tourons. Maybe things are changing in Greenland and they will be overrun with tourons! In the evening we went to the hotel for dinner which was very good. Mark and Lisa shouted me a lovely dinner there.

On 18^th August B and I went for a walk to the tiny port and then up Signal Hill where there were good views from the inland ice to the surrounding fjords. Mark and Lisa flew to Iceland in the early afternoon and we left a bit later for Copenhagen. We got there at midnight and stayed in an airport hotel and next day started on the long haul back to NZ. And so ended our second Greenland adventure. Meanwhile Tara and the Ice Bears team were fighting off polar bears and engaging pack ice off Svalbard but that is another story.