Arctic Adventures

Its funny how my adventures and expeditions germinate. Often it’s a random idea that strikes me like a moment of epiphany. I instantly know that’s what I will do and from then on its all research till the plan is fulfilled. In this case my epiphany was a suggestion by Paula, one of my climbing partners to join her on a rock-climbing trip to the Lofoten Islands off northern Norway. I was aware that the Lofotens had superb granite mountains in a spectacular location in the Norwegian Sea. In addition I was aware that over on the mainland nearby was a spectacular mountain called Stetind, Norway’s national mountain. Now Norway is not just down the road in fact it’s about as far from New Zealand as you can get. To justify the expense I decided I’d need to add in another major adventure in the Arctic and the obvious destination I decided was Greenland. To my surprise I found that Greenland was not a super expensive location and I could hire sea kayaks in a small town in the southwest called Nanortalik. Better still I stumbled across a remarkable man called Niels Jepsen who runs the Nanortalik Tourism Service who proved invaluable in sorting out the logistics.

So it was that on 29^th May our friend John Grant ran Belinda and myself out to Invercargill airport. Then followed a series of flights over the next few days that landed us in Oslo, the capital of Norway. I had rented an apartment there for a few days as a good induction to our Arctic adventure. Next we flew on the Bodo where Paula joined us and then we made a short flight to Svolvaer in the Lofotens. Here we picked up our hire car.  Paula had researched the Lofoten’s climbing guide so we wasted no time in claiming a route. 

Immediately above the town is a pinnacle of rock crowned by two horns of rock known as the Svolværgeita (The Svolvær Goat).  The tour de force involves a spectacular leap between the horns now more difficult due to a recent rockfall. We set off up the track into a hanging valley to reach a grassy col on the north face of the Svolværgeita. Here we roped up and climbed a rather intimidating 3-pitch route to the top of the Storhorn or higher horn. Paula led the top pitch and carefully bridged across to the Lillehorn. I wondered why she did not jump till I got there and gazed across the chasm. Needless to day it was absolutely terrifying and with some difficulty I also bridge across.

Then I realized the bad news that the abseil anchors were on the Storhorn and I had to climb back across. Eventually I got across and hung off the chain by one hand and managed to hook my daisy chain onto the bolt with my other hand. Once I sorted out the ropes we abseiled off. We drove to Kalle to camp in a big open field where there was a toilet and tap nearby. The weather was hot and dry and there was 24-hour daylight as we were north of the Arctic Circle.

Next day we set out for Djupfjord on the other side of Vågakallen, the big mountain just behind our campsite. There is a nice drive over and Belinda dropped us off at the entrance to the valley. The walk in took us 1.5 hours through birch forest past the fjord to an old terminal moraine that separates the upper freshwater lake from the fjord. Here we crossed and climbed up a track across granite slabs and scrub to an awesome face of steep slabs to perhaps the most famous climb in Lofoten called Bare Blåbær (in Norwegian ‘Only Bilberries’). It is 236 metres high, a vast slab riven with a line of cracks. There are 7 pitches.  We had it all to ourselves. Paula led 4 pitches and I three. There was some awesome hand jamming and it’s a trad climb and lots of excellent placements. The weather was warm and sunny and we moved steadily upwards. At the top there is an abseil chain and this leads down to anchors at roughly 50 metre intervals down the slabs to the right of our ascent line. Our 2, 50 metre ropes were ideal for the climb. Back at Djupfjordvatnet we has a swim in the lake and then ambled back down the fjord to meet Belinda.

Our next climb was the Småkallenryggen ( Small Mans Ridge) originally climbed by Arne Randers Heen in 1933. Amazingly I met Arne many years ago in Andalsness in the Romsdal when I was climbing there. He was a lovely man full of life and told me how the Germans had bombed his house in World War two and how he was delighted to find the one thing he treasured most, Slingsby’s Ice Axe in the ruins. Slingsby was an English Victorian gentleman known as the father of Norwegian mountaineering.

It’s a short walk from our campsite to Øvredalen, the valley below the Småkallenryggen. We walked past the lake there and then had a big leap across a creek and struck up a boggy plain to a mass of old morainic boulders. Then it was a scramble up to a gully on the Litkallen to top out on the ridge overlooking our campsite about 300 metres below us. Here it steepened and soon we had the rope out climbing steep slabs and along the narrow ridge to a cheval. We came to a top called Alkoholveggen and just past this came up against a very steep crackless slab. The plan was to cross this and then descend into the next valley, the Trolldalen but we could see steep snow slopes on the other side and without ice axes and crampons it looked difficult. Backtracking we found a line down a steep vegetated gully and at the bottom a bush with lots of old slings obviously a descent route. Just 1, 50-metre abseil and we had no difficulty reaching the valley floor. The walk back was straightforward.

We were all quite tired by this effort so declared a rest day. We had a walk and swim in Øvredalen, then moved our camp from the open field into the birch forest where it was more sheltered and cooler. Nearby were several other climbers camping and everyone was quiet and considerate. We had an early ‘night’ though it never gets dark in preparation for the Nordryggen of Vågakallen (943m) next day.

The Nordryggen is considered the best ‘low-grade’ Alpine rock climb in the Lofotens and a must do for us. I would rate it as similar to the South Ridge of Mt Christina in Fiordland though only half the height. The guide described 12 pitches but it more like 15. Belinda dropped us off at 6.00AM at Djupfjord where we started us the fjord on the same track as we took for Bare Blåbær. We continued past Djupfjordvatnet Lake to the upper valley where we climbed steeply to a col. There was a lot of snow around and we went too far left till Paula noticed our mistake. Then we sidled right into a gully and scrambled up steep rock to the base of the ridge. Here we roped up. Our first probe was unsuccessful so we moved right and climbed up a wet corner. Above this there were three pitches of scrambling. Then it was around a loose corner and up easy blocks to the Lunch Ledge that unfortunately was covered in a bank of snow.

Above this was a 25-metre vertical chimney, the lower part blocked with huge chockstones. Paula led up this and spent quite a while getting to the top. I suspected the worst and was not disappointed. Half way up she hung her pack off a runner so on reaching this we sorted out the ropes and Paula hauled her pack up. Snowmelt had made the chimney wet and it was a strenuous climb up the wet rock to the top. I led through and climbed a wet gully under a huge rock. Higher up we reached a huge slab with a crack system up it. On our right a high snow slope barred our way and as we were still in rock shoes we attacked the slab lower down. Paula carefully led this awkward pitch. Above this was a huge blade of rock that leaned away from the cliff and Paula led across this and up the wall to a stance. We got into a bit of strife with bad rope drag. I found this quite challenging as I took a slightly different line and had difficulty in retrieving our trad gear. I led through to snow slopes and these led to the ‘Gap’.

This is usually jumped but with a lot of snow about I thought it a bit dangerous in crampons. Instead I down climbed a bit and jumped into the huge snow bank nearly filling the gap and climbed out easily on the other side. Once out it was an easy scramble to the summit. I think the time was about 10PM. The views were fantastic in all directions and it was still light, the sun never setting at this latitude in June. We did not linger and after some photos set off down the Sydveggan or South Face. The route was not difficult to find and we found it very steep and exposed in places. Lower down we did a 50 meter abseil down a steep snow gully. On and on we plod over a col down a valley over a second col and back to Djupfjord. At 2.00PM we got back to the road to find Belinda patiently waiting in the car. The Nordryggen is 505 metres high and we did 15 pitches. We were 20 hours on the go but with no darkness there was no reason to bivi on the route.

Back at Kalle, the troops had a lazy start at lunchtime to greet a cool and cloudy day. Camping next to us were two Finnish climbers Anthony and Jimmy who we talked to. Previously we had seen them on ‘Rum and Cola’ on Alcoholveggan when we climbed the Småkallenryggan. In the afternoon I had a wash in a local river in Øvredalen. Meanwhile Belinda had found a camping chair to add to our gypsy camp.

Our next climb was at Pianokrakken at Djupfjord, the Pianohandler Lunds rute. This is Norwegian grade 4+ and 100 meters high. There were 5 pitches. It was a misty, damp day. It was steep granite and had some thin crack systems on it. After the climb we drove into Henningsvær, a town built on a series of rocky islands nearby. The houses are typically colourful. Above the town are fish drying racks. It is a home to a Klatreskole or climbing school.  It was still cold and damp back at Kalle.

Next day we did a drive back to Svolvær and checked out the Tourist Office, then the library. B and I went to the Amali Mall for lunch. We got some small tarps for our camp.  In the afternoon we checked the weather forecast and found that fine weather was forecast next day at Tysfjord where Stetind or Stetinden as it is known locally is. We decided to immediately drive over and camp at its base. It’s a 300-kilometer drive across the islands and onto the mainland and then south through Narvik to Tysfjord. Stetinden is Norway’s ‘National Mountain’ . Its height is 1392 meters.

We had a few hours sleep, then got up and started up the Storelva River at 3:50AM. This track climbs up through nice birch forest to Svartvatnet Lake. From here we took the climbers path to Halls Fortopp, an outlier of Stetinden. The clouds had meanwhile dissolved to a stunningly beautiful scene. All around snowy peaks and ice covered lakes as far as the eye could see. We dropped off some gear at Halls Fortopp and carried on to the Mysosten traverse, the crux of the climb. It was delightful scrambling. The granite block of Mysosten towers above a knife-edge ridge and is passed via a left angling crack on a vertical wall. It was very straightforward and the only difficulty I had was trying to retrieve a cam that walked into the crack on the traverse as I was seconding. As I had a sideways pull on the rope, I placed a cam directly above me so I could hang off it and reach down with the other hand to remove the cam. I’d have to admit I used some colorful ‘French’ enacting this procedure. The rest of the climb was just easy scrambling to the summit. On top was a summit book and we noticed we were only the second party to summit that season. On the descent we met a large party from the klatreskole climbing up and a Swedish guide and 2 clients. We did a 30-metre abseil over the Mysosten traverse and romped on down. At the lake we met Belinda coming up. Then we all descended to our camp.

During the night the clouds returned and it rained. We drove to Kjøpsvik to catch the ferry but as it was not due for ages, we drove on the Skaberget and got the ferry to Bognes. Further on we arrived at Skutvik and got the ferry over to Løding and drove back to Svolvær. On the way we did have a look at the Trolltinden Peaks but they were not inspiring. The hardest of them is Rulten but one needs to take a boat across to Reknes from Svolvær. In Martin Moran book “ High Places” he gives a grim account of climbing it and it took them 19 hours of sometimes desperate climbing. Back in Svolvær we booked tickets on the express boat to Bødo for 18^th. We also booked a cottage at Ørsvågvær.

On 13^th we went to Gandalf, a cliff near Henningsvær and did ‘Gandalf. This is 100-metres long Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff by a fine series of pitches each interesting, varied and well protected. It is a Norwegian grade 5 and Paula led them all. I had little difficulty in following apart from removing a jammed hex on the crux above the Eagles nest. We finished the route in the afternoon and on the drive back dropped off Paula who wanted to climb Glamtinden. B and I decided on the spur of the moment to take off and drive to the south end of the Lofotens, as the forecast was poor for the next day. We drove down to Reine. There we found a nice guesthouse and room for the night.

Next day we drove on the Å and had a look around. We heard there was a traditional bakery there so got some bread and cinnamon buns. Back at Kalle Paula was away and she had done a traverse of some local peaks by herself. I set off by myself and climbed Glamtinden in drizzly weather. The following day was not great so we drove to Kabelvåg and walked around the town. The weather now seemed to have broken and on 17^th we stayed in our cottage at Orsvagvaer and on 18^th dropped off our car, took the ferry to Bødo and a taxi to Bodøsjoen camping ground where we had another cottage booked.

On 19^th we flew Oslo and then another flight to Edinburgh. From Waverly we took a train to Aviemore where Frank met us. Then to Boat of Garten where we caught up with Liz and enjoyed a wonderful stay for a week. BOG is a quaint village about 6 miles from Aviemore set in Scots pine forest near the river Spey. We have stayed here before with Frank and Liz on our travels and it’s a wonderful treat sharing stories with them and enjoying their company and hospitality.

Next day I set off with Frank to the Cairngorms that lie just to the south of us. We drove up to the ski car park, and then hiked up a track to a ridge on the right that led over Cairn Lochan to the high plateau. There we did a transect for a bird survey. We dropped down to Loch Avon where I had a swim. Back up and carried on with the survey. We saw quite a few ptarmigan, meadow pipets, snow bunting and peregrine falcon. We also saw a herd of reindeer.

On 21^st we set off for Loch Laggan and climbed two “Grahams”. The Grahams are peaks between 2000’ and 2500’ named after Fiona Graham who first made the list and who was murdered on a hike in the Highlands. It was a showery day and we nearly aborted the trip but fortunately the weather cleared when we arrived at Loch Laggan. We first climbed Bibbein Shua 746m and then moved on to Binnein Shios 687m.

The following day we all headed off to the ‘Black Isle’ to do a beach survey at Eathie Mains beach and then at Ballintore. It was all a bit new to us and we did manage to identify various types of seaweed, anemones and winkles. It was a pleasant day. We then went up to Inverness and along the Great Glen to climb 2 more Grahams, Meall Fuar-mhonaidh (699m) and Glas-bheinn Mhor (651m) situated half way along Loch Ness on its western side near Drimnadrochit. A track leads to the top where there is a fine view with Loch Ness below us. I had a swim in a lake on the way out.

On 25^th we took the train to Bridge of Allan and stayed with Emma and Donald for 2 days and then moved on to Edinburgh to stay with James and Fiona. On 30^th we all flew to Copenhagen and stayed at a hotel airport and next day flew to Narsarsuaq in Greenland. It’s a 4-hour flight across the North Atlantic and most spectacular flying across southern Greenland. We landed at Narsarsuaq and then got a helicopter to Nanortalik where Niels Jepsen and John Sinclair met us. He took us to his cottage on the south side of the town. John had arrived a day before us. There was a glitch in that James and Fiona’s baggage did not arrive and it was another few days before it arrived. We spent the rest of the day buying food and checking out Niel’s kayaks.

We decided to split the party as James and Fiona would be a faster paddlers and I felt it would be better to take an advance party to the Kuussuaq River and sort out the portage to Tasersuag Lake. On 2nd we bought more food at the local supermarkets that were very well stocked, packed up and got on the water at 3:15pm. It was breezy and there was ‘Ice Fog’ as we started. Soon I was freezing despite my merino top and paddle jacket. Out in the harbour were icebergs and I eventually had to stop and put on my fleece hat and pogies. The water temperature about zero degrees and with the wind chill it was icy cold. We paddled around the cape into Tasermiut Fjord and after about 15-kilometers camped at Niaqornaq. I was shaking with the cold and hurriedly stripped off my wet gear for dry clothes and down jacket. The camping site was not ideal on lumpy ground partly in the lee of some rocks above the shore but it did provide some shelter from the freezing wind.

It was calm next morning and when the sun hit the camp we got up at 5.00AM. After breakfast we packed up and got onto the water. Splendidly clear day and no wind. We paddled out of the bay around the headland and carried on up the fjord. We cut across to the other side and kayaked along the south shore. Some seals periscoped. The shore we followed was boulder and cliffy with no real landing places. On and on it went. Later an onshore wind sprang up and we made slow progress mainly due to John. Opposite Tasiusaq we managed to pull in on some granite shelves for a break but the mosquitoes were a nuisance. Meanwhile the wind was getting worse all the time so we jumped into the kayaks and beat our way across the bay to land in front of the village. The village of maybe 20 houses was mostly deserted and we strolled to the other end of town. John found the small store and lent me some money to buy some drinks and chocolate bars. We lounged around for 2 hours hoping the wind would drop. I went for a walk above the bay towards the headland and thought it might be easier in the main fjord so we decided to leave about 4.00PM. There were some huge icebergs off the headland and we gave them a wide berth headed up the fjord about 13 kilometres to the Kuussuaq River, the river draining Tasersuaq Lake.  We eventually arrived there and found a nice camping area just above the beach complete with an open-air toilet! We had been 11 hours on the water mainly due to John’s slow style of paddling. 

The wind died overnight and I was up early to scout the route over to Tasersuaq Lake. I found a good trail and it was only a short walk over. The scenery was gorgeous with high mountains and a deep blue lake. We sent a text to Niels on John’s sat phone and he informed us Fiona and James were on the way. We moved camp over to the lake to a nice camping area but the flies were a pest, necessitating use of headsets. I set off with Auke to climb Qasigeerneq, a 1450-meter peak directly above us. However on the way up I spotted Fiona and James as a tiny speck moving rapidly across the bay so we headed down to meet them. B and John were there already so we moved all their gear across to our lakeside campsite. 

Next day we kayaked to Qinnguadalen at the top of the lake. It was a bit disorganised as I got John on the water first and was supposed to catch him up but then Auke has trouble with her rudder cables that needed adjustment. By the time I got that done John has disappeared. Then the wind got up and I knew we were going to have a tough day especially on the return. We landed at Qinnguadalen but there was no sign of the expected forest and a lonely gravestone stood on the shore. This commemorates the drowning of two young people in a nearby river. We paddled over to Qingeq Kujalleq, the next valley and up the river to land on the shore. The plan was to hike up the valley to a pass going over to Kangerluk Fjord lying to the east of us. It was about 6-kilometers away and the route was through willow and birch scrub often head high, across creeks and morainic boulders with a climb to a higher valley and at the head of that an even steeper climb to a plateau at about 400 meters. On either side were tall mountains and glaciers dripping off them. Only James, Fiona and Auke came with me. I climbed up a knoll overlooking the pass for a better view and I could see easier terrain on the other side.  

As the weather was looking doubtful we retreated quickly to the boats. There John was waiting for us as he was concerned about paddling back in windy conditions though Belinda had gone back earlier by herself. I set off with Auke and John and it was a slow paddle into a rising headwind. We did not get back till 9.00PM mainly due to Johns slow pace. I was feeling a bit spent so retired to bed early.

I got up early and went for a wash in the lake before the flies got airborne. I had planned to do a solo climb of Putooruttoq, a 1500m climb. Then Belinda joined me and we paddled to the south end of the lake where we bumped into 2 Spaniards called David and Iban who were riding Fat Bikes and hoping to bike around the lake, an impossible task. However they had packrafts to bypass the many obstacles enroute. B and I then decided to climb Qaqqatsiaq, a 500-meter hill nearby. It was an easy climb with great views all around. Back at camp John slept in and Auke was busy making camp bread and a caramel pudding. In fact Auke made some amazing desserts and I nick named her “ The Queen of Desserts”!!

I slept well and woke to clouds on the peaks and distant rain. I was keen to move camp over to the fjord. Then the wind built coming down the lake and it was just as well we did move as a massive wind swept the banks of the lake but over on the fjord side it was a lot less. The lake by now was a churning mass of white water. John was pretty disorganised with gear scattered all over the place. It was here he lost the rear hatch cover to his kayak. Interestingly the title of his book was “Collapse” the story of various civilizations that had collapsed in history including the Norse settlements in Greenland. There were Norse ruins visible in places. Eric the Red arrived in southern Greenland in 982 and settled in the southwest.  The Norse colonies survived for about 500 years then mysteriously disappeared. Theories abound for their collapse but its likely related to hostile relations with Inuit, loss of trade with Norway, environmental degradation due to slow regeneration of plants and overgrazing by traditional livestock, climate change with the mini-ice age, crop failures, famine and failure to adopt to a maritime culture like Inuit did for millennia.

Next day I woke to the sound of wind and rain on the tent. When I got up at 9.00AM I asked John to contact Niels for a weather forecast.  Belinda had a ‘cold’ so did not emerge till later. I got breakfast and then went for a walk with Auke to the plantation nearby. There were a few acres of stunted pine trees maybe 3-4 metres high, a rarity in Greenland. By the time we got back the weather had improved and John reported a good forecast so we set off at 2.00PM. Later John slowed down and as we were getting frustrated I put him on a tow. Belinda told me later that while I was paddling strongly John was having a rest and taking photos.  Luckily I did not see this.

At Qoorormiut we stopped for a break. John’s rudder cable broke and that delayed us for at least 30 minutes. Then the wind came away and John’s speed just dropped away frustrating us immensely. Finally at 8:30PM we arrived at Klosterdalen and here chaos reigned. I wanted to put ashore on the south side of the river as I felt it was a better location but people were all over the place and no one was paying attention so I just left everyone to his/her own devices and pulled out below a steep bank on the south side and camped there. Everyone minus James and Fiona who had dry suits was cold, wet and tired. I was soaked, as my spray skirt leaked badly and frozen so wasted no time in changing into some dry clothes. It was overcast, windy and cold. It was heaven to disappear into the tent.

I was up early, got a small fire going and dried out my wet clothing. Then got breakfast and kayaked across to see how the others were going. We set a departure time of 9:30AM. Then B and I got ready and onto the water. We waited and waited but no sign of John at 10.15AM so that was it, we were off. No more waiting and getting cold and frustrated. Despite some reluctance the rest of the party decided to let John take his own time and catch us up later. We paddled on to the Sermitsiaq Glacier. There was a bit of a following breeze and it was cold and overcast. There was an extensive area of moraine below the glacier and here we beached and walked up the rubbly hills to get closer to the cliffs down which a torrent rushed from the hanging glacier above. John eventually arrived much to my relief and after a while James and Fiona paddled off to the Sermeq Glacier and the rest of us crossed to the Itillersuaq Valley where we pitched camp by the river.

The next day dawned fine and sunny. We kayaked to the Sermeq Glacier which is a spectacular icefall coming off the Icecap at 1700 meters in one huge plunge to the fjord. It has retreated back enough so that it does not reach the sea now. Below the icefall are granite slabs and we landed on these and walked up to the ice. It’s truly amazing. Some Inuit arrived later and also landed on the slabs for a look at the ice. Then John and I headed back to camp while the others went exploring to the Sermitsiaq Glacier kayaking into the lagoon at its base, as it was high tide.  Back at camp I had a bath in the river, packed up and set off up the valley. This was open at first but then I had knee to head high birch scrub in the gullies coming off the surrounding ranges.  I climbed to 300 metres overlooking a small lake and saddle and had views of another glacier coming off the icecap. There was no easy way up. Then I returned to camp keeping high to avoid some of the scrub arriving about 8:30PM. As I was sorting out camp, David and Iban, the Spaniards arrived in their packrafts. I wandered over and made them a hot drink. They were very grateful.

On 11th July we packed up and got on the water at 10:30AM. We made good time as here was no wind and the weather was fine and sunny. However just before Kiinaalik the westerly wind came away and built rapidly so we pulled into a sheltered beach. We waited a few hours. I was not happy to carry on especially with inexperienced people so elected to camp on the beach. James and Fiona decided to carry on and Auke went with them. John, B and I set up a comfortable camp there.

We left at 6:00AM in calm conditions. John left 15 minutes after us. We followed the coast west to Nuua and no sign of the others. However about 4 kilometres past Nuua we found their camp at 9:20AM having covered 20 kilometers. They were getting ready to climb a mountain behind their camp. We waited for John who arrived at 11.00AM and had a hot chocolate ready for him. It was a pleasant place to camp. I had a sleep in the afternoon. The plan for the morrow was to head to Nanortalik and John to leave before us at 6.00AM, us 2 hours later and James and Fiona about 9-10AM.

Next day John got away at 6:30AM and Auke, B ands I at 8.00AM. Conditions were good and we sped along expecting to see John at any time but no he made it all the way to the peninsula at Niagornaq where we finally caught him up. It was overcast and slightly breezy. Leaving the peninsula we caught up with James and Fiona on the coast and we got into Nanortalik at 3:30PM. Niels cottage was free so that was great. We bought a pizza for dinner, washed some clothes and tidied up. 

I rose early and went for a walk around town by myself. The sun was shining and hardly a soul about. After breakfast B and I went to the supermarket and bought food for the next trip. In the afternoon Auke joined us for a tour of the local museum. Then I met up with Niels to discuss the trip to the north. John is off tomorrow for the return trip to the UK and we’re sorry to see him go. He is such a delightful character and humorous. The team will not be the same!

I saw John off with Niels to the heliport for the flight to Narsarsuaq. Before he left he managed to melt a plastic bowl on the stovetop. “And I was doing so well” was all he could say. It was a foggy cold morning John may not be the world’s best paddler but he makes up for it in humour and goodwill. We got organised and got away at 8:30AM

The seas were flat as we glided over the still waters heading north. We stopped at a collection of huts on an island called Qegertasugssuk Thomsens  Ø. We carried on as a SW breeze built and we had breaking waves at each headland. Eventually we reached Pisigsik and ran into the bay where there is a mine being decommissioned. We tried to get up the river at the head but the tide was out and there were breaking waves on the mudflats so we picked another place to land a bit to the south. Here we made a nice camp partially sheltered by driftwood, as it was pretty windy. The plan was to go to Quvnermiut tomorrow.

We woke to a calm sea and light breeze. We paddled across to a headland called Qingarssuaq and then struck across the Sarqa Fjord and coasted along the east coast of Amitsoq Island heading north. The cliffs drop sheer into the fjord and we paddled along towards the north end of the island. The map shows a place called Sermilik there and we were expecting to see some huts but nothing there. Across on the opposite shore were 2 huts and a cross. We stopped for lunch at a small beach and it was cold and dreary. The wind was building and when we left we had to battle into a strong tidal race around the northern point and a strong westerly wind funnelling down the fjord against us. We were now in the Angmalortup Tunua that runs west between the mainland and the islands of Amitsoq and Angmalortoq to the south. It appeared the best landing places were on the mainland to the NW so we set a course to the NW to Niagornarssugssuaq. By now the wind was kicking up quite a sea, force 3-4 as we moved line abreast across the sea for a 5 km crossing. Needless to say we got very wet with the flying spray and wind and leaky spray skirts and it was bitterly cold too. It was a relief to pull in on the other side where we found a nice place to camp.

After setting up camp and having lunch B and I went for a walk up the hill behind us to a small lake on a plateau at 300-metres. It was a bit bleak though dramatic with surrounding mountains and distant peaks to the north of us. On returning to camp Auke had made custard pastries and Angels Delight that was a real treat. The wind dropped off and we had a nice camp there.

We arose at 6:00 AM and got underway at 8:00 AM. It was a fast paddle along the north coast of Angmalortup Tunua to a channel called Ikerasarssuk that took us to the Unatoq Fjord. Then we did the 7.5 km open crossing to Igdlorpait. We landed at an abandoned school and a few houses there amid a sea of colourful flowers. It was sort of mournful that the community had moved on for whatever reason leaving this idyllic spot. From here we crossed to Unatoq Island and the strait was foggy and cold with a wind funnelling through kicking up a sea. We kayaked along the east coast to Igpik where we landed on a beach and set up camp. Further along were a house and some people working on some nets. James went off to talk to them. Igpik is famous for its hot pools so later we set off along a track to them. Thankfully they were uncommercialized, just an outhouse to change in. Some of the local kids were in this pond and we joined them. At first it was nice and warm but an ice fog drifted in and it got pretty cold so we bolted for the change room after 30 minutes. It was freezing cold on getting out so all modesty was forgotten as we all rushed in to change into our dry clothes. Back at the tent we had tuna and noodles and Auke made us delicious chocolate custard. The plan was to paddle back to the Sondre Sermilik if the weather held.

We were away at 7:35 AM on a windless day and millpond sea. B and I left first to take some pics of a flotilla of icebergs on the other side of the fjord. We regrouped and headed off south back to a beach we had stopped on in the Ikersarssuukl channel. This time we got a fire going from driftwood, as we were quite wet. James and Fiona decided to leave early to paddle on to the Sondre Sermilik Fjord and we said we would camp on Amitsoq Island and wait for them at Portussoq. Further along the wind struck us and built rapidly so we put into our old campsite at Niagornarssugssuaq and set up the tents. I think we were all a bit tired and needed a rest. It was showery for the rest of the day and cool.

Next day it was showery so we were in no rush up. Later in the morning it brightened up and no wind so set off to the Akorna Fjord and paddled down to Portussoq. On either side were steep mountains rising to 700 to 1200 meters high. There is a peninsula here and we camped on the south side where we found a small creek. A steep bank led up to a level area where we set up camp.  Then it was spreading out all the wet clothing to dry and have some lunch. Belinda set of to take some photos of icebergs and I went for a walk up to a saddle to a small lake at 200 meters where I had a swim and then climbed up to a high point on a nearby ridge to 360 meters. Auke came up later and joined me and we walked back together to camp. She made us some pancakes that as usual were a treat.

On 20^th it was a cloudless blue sky and still as Auke and I set off for a gully leading up to the main ridge on Amitsoq to the north of our camp. This led up to the main ridge on the island overlooking the Sarqa fjord where we had paddled a few days before. Then we turned south and climbed over loose rocky slopes to a high point, then over a series of humps to the summit at 760m. I built a summit cairn and named the peak after my companion. We descended a spur dropping to the southeast that led down to a col, then walked over to a small lake and had a swim. After that it was an easy amble back to camp. What a day in west Grønland blue sky, the call of ravens, fjords, countless mountains in all directions, the sea littered with icebergs. Back at camp Auke knocked up a chocolate cream cake with crowberries that B had collected. In the evening James and Fiona arrived. They had reached the Sermeg glacier and found it had retreated about 10 kilometers since their map was made. They had camped at Ipatit, which they described as nice, but buggy. Tomorrow we aim to go to Qeqertasugssuk.

We got away at 8:30AM. It was a beautiful day with a light northerly breeze. Paddled down the Sermersup Sarqa to the tip of Amitsoq, then paddled across to the mainland and down to our island where we camped by the huts. At lunchtime James and Fiona arrived. It was a pleasant afternoon and we went for a walk to the highest point of the island that was probably only 60 meters high. There were good views of icebergs and to the west to Qornoq.

On our last day Auke, B and I paddled on the west side of the island. A southerly was blowing in our faces. At the south end of the island B wanted to wait for Fiona and James who were supposed to be paddling down that side later and Auke and I pushed on into a stiff breeze to the lee of a distant island where we spotted Fiona and James waiting for us. They had in fact paddled down the east side. We all had to wait about half an hour for B till she gave up waiting and headed south. Then we all kayaked back to Nanortalik where we were greeted by Niels. The rest of the day was spent washing and drying clothes. That evening Niels joined us for dinner and I presented him with a present of a DVD “Ata Whenua, Shadowland “ on Fiordland that we all watched on his laptop.

On the last day I got up early and climbed the highest peak on the island that Nanortalik is situated on. Splendid views. Got back at 9:15AM and found the others were treating B to a birthday cake. We did some work on the kayaks and then Niels saw us off at lunchtime. At the airport we met Emelia, Niels wife who was returning from Copenhagen. The helicopter flight to Narsarsuaq was fine and we stayed at the Blue Ice Hostel. In the evening we had a super meal at the hotel.

On our last day I left early by myself and walked to the Ice Viewing Plateau up the valley. It takes a few hours to get there and back. For my walk the first few kilometres are tar seal to a lake and then a gravel 4WD track to a meadow of grass with lots of colourful flowers, then up beside a waterfall to a lake studded plateau.  The view to the west is spectacular with a giant glacier coming off the icecap. It was hot and beautifully clear. I had a swim in a lake and then ambled back. Fiona, B and James had crossed the fjord to visit Eric the Red’s farm/display that sounded worthwhile. Back at Blue Ice Hostel I repacked and then met up with B and had lunch at the Blue Ice café down the road. In the afternoon we got our flight back to Copenhagen. It was with much regret I left this amazing land and felt very privileged to have visited it and done some great sea kayaking with some special people.

Acknowledgments: Thanks to Paula for suggesting the trip and leading all the hard climbs and to Belinda who did the driving. In Scotland we much appreciated staying with Frank and Liz Johnstone at Boat of Gartan and outings to the ‘Grahams’ and Black Isle. Thanks to Donald and Emma at Bridge of Allen and to Fiona and James in Edinburgh for our enjoyable stay and hospitality. In Greenland special thanks to Niel Jepsen, our man in Nanortalik and to our wonderful team, Auke from Holland, John from the UK, Fiona and James from Scotland and Belinda, my wife for agreeing to come to Greenland and making it a memorable trip.