The Gumotex 4 Expedition

In February 2010 Simon and I concluded our G3 expedition when we arrived in Milford Sound. Since then we’ve had a hankering to have another trip in Fiordland and the logical place would seem to be in middle Fiordland. Studying the map showed a lot of unknown country west of the Murchison Mountains and it seemed we’d have no choice but to retrace some of our steps for at least some of the way.

A look at the map showed a possible route from the Junction Burn Hut in the SW arm of the Middle Fiord to Lake Bloxham, over the tops to Lake McKinnon, down the Large Burn to Lake Marchant, Caswell Sound, Lake Shirley, over the Shirley Saddle to Marjory Creek and the Irene River. From there we could ascend the Irene River to the Irene Saddle, climb Coronation Peak and either go over the Te Au Saddle to the Forster Burn or alternatively traverse the tops to Esk Saddle and down the Woodrow Burn back to the Junction Burn Hut. Simon was keen so a trip was born.

We started on Monday 25^th February. I drove to Te Anau and picked up Simon and headed to Te Anau Downs. Leaving our car at the Fiordland National Park Lodge/Motel we kayaked across a flat lake to the middle Fiord. Soon after entering the sound I heard the wind and sure enough a strong wind greeted us. Then it was an increasing wind we struggled into all the way to the start of the SW Arm. By now it was dusk as we raced to reach the hut before dark. It had taken us 8 exhausting hours to the hut.

I was feeling quite tired as I had just returned from a trip to Mt Hooker up the Clarke River and had done several other trips prior to that. In addition I had sprained my knee and it had not fully recovered.

But after a good nights sleep, I was feeling better as we set off up the Junction Burn. It was somewhat confusing to pick up the right track as the Woodrow Burn joins it. A short distance up the creek I noticed a yellow Personal Locator Beacon sticking out of a pile of drift debris. I put it in my pack and carried on. Further on we came to a hut and the track became more difficult to follow. Later we took a compass bearing and discovered we were in the Jennings Burn having missed the turn to the Junction Burn. A look at the map showed it did not matter as we could easily reach the mountains west of Lake Bloxham from the head of the Jennings Burn.

We were having lunch when I heard a loud beeping noise. Mystified I traced it back to my pack and to my horror found the salvaged PLB was flashing and sending out a signal. What to do? As we had no screwdriver, we could not removed the cover so Simon jumped on it smashing off the cover and pulled out the wires.  I had visions of a helicopter rescue underway for the errand PLB.

Once clear of the bush we ascended a series of rises containing lakes and then swung around to the right through a saddle to reach the upper valley above Lake Bloxham. Gaining the western Ridge we climbed up this to about the 1300 meter contour and then descended into a hanging valley above Lake McKinnon. From here it was a very steep descent down to the lake. In places there were cliffs but we managed to bypass them. At one spot I lost balance and nearly toppled off a cliff. After this we were more careful as it was no place to have an accident. Later in the day we reached the lake and stripped off to have a swim being so hot in the bush.

The lake was low and a white beach continued around the east side of the lake. The packrafts were inflated and we paddled down to the outlet. Unfortunately it was very muddy and wet in all the open areas so we paddled back up the lake to a stream and a raised gravel beach. Here we discovered signs of a recent helicopter landing and boot prints! We set up camp back along the creek in a sheltered spot.

We passed a very pleasant night camped under the trees beside a stream. I awoke early and lit a fire and boiled the billy. I gave Simon a cup of tea in bed and we had a leisurely start. After breakfast we carried the packrafts back to the lake and paddled down to the outlet. Here we beached and folded them up and set off along the banks through fairly open forest. Later we came to a slip where we could have a look at the surrounding mountains. In the middle of it was a palisade of logs probably an old hunters camp. He had a snack here before pushing on. The valley curved around to the left and we entered a strange area of open grassy and mud flats. There were signs of many deer passing through. At the lower end we scrambled across huge boulders and further on we were able to walk along many beachs as the river was quite low. Eventually we reached the river where Lake Marchant backfilled it. We paddled out into the lake to face a headwind.

I was a bit concerned by a strong breeze blowing up the lake but by keeping close to the eastern shore it was not too bad and we made steady progress along the shore to the far end. We passed a huge waterfall dropping into the lake off the surrounding mountains. Near the end of the lake we cut across to near the outlet and beached. Here we picked up disc markers dropping to Caswell Sound. Eventually we reached the lonely Caswell Sound Hut. This historic hut was built in 1949 by the Colonel JK Howard expedition on the NZ-American Waipiti Survey. It was repaired several years ago by Ken Bradley and Grant Tremain, when the roof was in danger of collapsing. I remember how glad we were to reach it in 2008 in a deluge after paddling in from Caswell Sound.

I lit a fire and got the billy on while Simon headed off for a wash braving a multitude of voracious sandflies. It was good to spread out our gear on the 2 bunks. In the hut book I read how my daughter Tara and her companion Sim had kayaked in from the sea two winters before at dusk and camped across the river and found it the next day. It must have been a welcome haven in the depths of winter. We had a hot drink and dinner and retired early.

After a restful night I awoke early but as it was still dark outside postponed getting up till dawn. We packed up and set off for the beach where the packrafts were blown up. I set off first, paddling onto a still sound. It was about 5-kilometers to the start of the climb to Lake Shirley. Simon passed me and headed off down the sound and I could not work out why he had gone so far out. Thankfully, he stopped so I paddled after him to point out the route to the granite domes below Lake Shirley. Landing, we packed up and set off and what a struggle. It’s a 600-meter climb to the granite domes and I felt exhausted by the effort. Lake Shirley is at 630 meters altitude and it took us several hours to reach it from the sound. It was a relief to reach the domes and then a sidle took us to the outlet of Lake Shirley.

Here we blew up the rafts and set off on the 2-kilometer paddle to the beach at the far end. What a lovely place, a sandy beach and a green swarthe for our camp. Once pitched I had a swim and then a brew up. Nearby was a Rata tree in full bloom with its red flowers adding to the magic of the scene.

It rained overnight and was drizzly at dawn. We had a leisurely packup and then I led off towards Shirley Saddle. A short while later we were brought up against a tall rock face. Here we moved leftwards and eventually found a green mossy steep watercourse that was easy enough to climb to reach the top of the cliff. Here on it was a steep bushy climb all the way to the clearings above the saddle. It seemed easier to avoids the saddle proper and instead head down into the valley to the south. Thankfully we found a good deer trail heading in that direction. Lower down we crossed the creek and moved down the left hand side to the main creek in the valley. Here we alternated between deer trails in the bush or walking along the river bed.  We had lunch in a nice spot and then continued along to the slip at the mouth of the valley.

This was a steep boulder slope dropping towards the Marjory Falls below. We remembered this well from our previous trip and at about 550 meters we climbed up a small cliff into the forest. Then it was down to the 500-meter level aiming for the spur running to the southwest above the falls. We had a lot of difficulty locating and staying on this as it offers an easy descent to the Irene Valley floor. Once down we walked across to the Irene River and noted this was tidal and rather large. The rafts were used again and we were delighted to find we could paddle upstream for several kilometres almost the site of our food cache. We were able to paddle right up to the base of the Marjory Falls that were spectacular. 

At the junction of the next large tributary from the north we knew our food cache was waiting. Leaving the packs at the junction we followed it upstream for a few minutes to find my orange flag and the buckets. Simon then found a nice place to camp in the forest about 100 meters along the Irene.

We set camp in a lovely spot on a high bank above the Irene. The tent was pitched and a clothes line put up and gear dried in the warm sunny weather. Then we had a hot chocolate to celebrate this milestone. Simon went off for a wander while I had a rest. We knew nearby were hot springs and Simon found a warm stream not far away. We had planned on a rest day next day and an opportunity to find the springs.

Another fine day saw us setting off unleaden upstream. We crossed the stream to a beautiful white beach and while there a helicopter suddenly zoomed overhead and although must have seen us did not acknowledge us at all. Futher on we came to the warm stream. Following this we found a small pool under a rock and lukewarm water here. It was only enough for one person to soak in and not very exciting. And that was it, no hot pools and no dancing girls etc. So back to camp where I did a tidy up and had a bath in the river. I lazed around the rest of the day and it felt very good.

Another fine day as we set off heavily leaden for the Irene Saddle. At first the golng was very easy as the river level was low exposing many beaches that made for fast travel. Here and there were small flats backed by beech forest rising up the steep mountain sides. At about 100 meters we entered the first gorge and we had to scramble up steep rocks. Our pace slowed a lot from now on. At about 300-meters we were forced into the bush and a very slow pace. Shortly afterwards I suggested to Simon we head straight uphill to the ‘Far Faraway Fields’. At first the ascent was easy but higher up was vertical in places. In one spot Simon’s feet slipped out underneath him leaving hanging on by only his arms and doing a face plant. Eventually wereached the Sylvian fields and set up camp in a lovely spot overlooking the Irene with views of Mt Irene to the northwest. The Far Faraway Fields is an extensive flat undulating clearing surrounded by bush, covering an area of maybe 25 hectares at 900 meters half way between Mt Irene and Coronation Peak. To the east the bush and scrub climbs steeply up to the ridge line. We had a pleasant dinner and retired early.

The plan next day was to carry all our gear up to the main ridge and set off on a day climb of Coronation peak to the west of us. The scrub was slow going and some steep tussock took us to some terraces to the ridge. Here we left our surplus gear covered in rocks as a kea sat quietly eying us. The day was fine though a bit breezy. A helicopter on deer recovery was buzzing back and forth into the Irene and landing deer on Te Au Saddle. At one stage it seemed to be having difficulty in clearing the saddle below us with several deer hanging off the strop. Ahead of us was a peak that we scrambled up only to find a very steep peak beyond that. The descent was not easy and we could have used our short rope to get down safely but I could see it was going to take a long time so was less than enthusiastic. So back to our gear and on to peak 1634. This was quite a climb and when we eventually got there we were surprised to find a loose steep ridge continueing over the next few peaks. It did not look like a packing route with our monster packs. About 100 meters below us to the east were snow slopes and rock terraces that we thought would allow us to bypass this part of the ridge.

This section was easy enough with several short rock scrambles and we reached the tussock ridge beyond the steep bit. By now bad weather was definitely on the way with cloud scudding the tops and the wind increasing. On we plod as fast as we could go. At the end of this ridge we could see a large lake directly below us and the slopes dropping very steeply. I raced off on a reconnaissance and found a good route down the lake. Once down we contoured around a small hill and as we were now in cloud and the day advanced we called a halt and put up the tent in a small depression in the lee of a rocky ridge. It was not ideal but OK in the circumstances.

During the night the rain started and at midnight Simon found we were camped in a pool of water and likely to get flooded. So up in the rain to pull the tent a bit higher in our restricted camping spot. There was no rush up next morning but eventually I had enough and got up to make some breakfast. We were still in cloud and rain. Simon started some irrigation work to drain our small lake and we managed to lower the water level. By evening it was clearing. On the VHF radio we spoke to DOC at Te Anau and Sue and got a good forecast for next day.

It cleared overnight and we made an early start next morning in the dark. We set off over a series of small hills and eventually reached Robin Saddle. From here we traversed a terrace that took us to the ridge leading down to the Esk Saddle. This was pretty straightforward apart from a few steep places. Esk Saddle was in open beech forest and here we picked up a disked track that led easily to the upper Woodrow Valley. From here its about 11-kilometers to the Junction Burn hut. The first half is bush alternating with boggy flats. Simon was flying and I walked at a more sedate pace. At the last flat we had lunch at the new DOC hut there and then motored on to the Junction Burn. It took us 13 hours to reach it from our previous camp. Boy it felt good to have a comfortable hut for the night.

Next day we had a leisurely start and paddled out with a following wind most of the way and our sails up. Back to Te Anau Downs and a hot drink at the Lodge from Tania.

The G4 expedition by Simon Marwick and Stanley Mulvany 25/2/13- 8/3/13.

Acknowledgments: To Simon for yet again carrying more than his share of gear and for his route finding. To Southern Lake helicopters for dropping off our food cache and to Tania Ward to kindly looking after our car at the Fiordland National Park Lodge and a hot drink on our return.