The Serpentine Range

The trip was organised by Robin McNeill for the Southland Section of the New Zealand Alpine Club. The Serpentine Range are in the Southern Alps just north of the famous Routeburn Track. Paula and I were keen to join as we were not familiar with the range and there were a few easy peaks to climb there. We left at lunchtime on Friday and had agreed to meet the others on Saturday morning at the Routeburn Flats Hut. The drive up from Invercargill was uneventful and it was a pleasant walk up to the Flats hut in the evening that we got to just after dark. There were some other folk there who had gone to bed and no doubt cursed us as we set about making dinner.

Next morning dawned fine and there was a great view of the surrounding snow capped peaks touched with an alpine glow as we left. It was too good to sit around till 9.00 AM when Robin was due to arrive so we set off at 6.50AM. We were at the Falls Hut complex in an hour and then headed up to Lake Harris. There was an overseas couple in front of us but they turned back in knee deep snow at the lake. We crossed the lake outlet and headed up a tussock/snow ridge towards Xenicus. I was feeling very tired and unfit so left my pack higher up in a basin as we climbed towards the East Ridge of Xenicus. Higher up the snow improved and several awkward steps on the ridge needed care.










The final slope was quite steep and challenging with just one ice axe each and no rope. The views when we got there were great especially towards the Darrans where I could recognise many peaks I’d climbed in the past there. The descent went well and on the way down we spied 4 people crossing frozen Lake Harris, no doubt Robin and party. We arrived back at our gear drop and had a lie in the tussock and a bite to eat.

The weather still looked fine and I was thinking of heading down to the Falls Hut but Paula suggested following Robins footprints up to the Valley of the Trolls so I thought that was a good idea. Off we set crossing Lake Harris and into the valley to find them camped a short distance up. Nigel and Graham I knew from a previous trip and Julia was a new face. We had a pleasant camp that night though it was cold in the morning.





Another fine day and hard snow conditions and we decided to go for Erebus another 1900-meter peak further up the valley. Robin and co decided to try Xenicus from the camp. I was curious to see they left their tents up when on their climb which is something I’ve never done because of the risk of being damaged by keas. Snow conditions were excellent and we made good time up the valley. We were going to climb straight up but I was wary of a steep hard snow step on the face that was quite exposed. Instead we deviated off to the right up a gully and onto easier slopes running up from the south to the peak.

There had been quite a few avalanches and the snow was soft. We arrived on the summit without mishap. Again views were spectacular from Tutoko to Earnslaw and from Martins Bay to Christina. The descent went well and we were back in camp late morning. Robin was co were there and had wisely turned back when it became too technical for the skills of the party.

Then it was down valley for a spell at the Falls Hut and a pleasant walk back to the cars.